Month: January 2000

Every year at this time I turn to the upcoming season with much anticipation.With the seed catalogs arriving, I spend time finding new varieties and old favorites that I want to grow.My thoughts also turn to the needs of the garden and preparations for the new season.This gives me the opportunity to review some of the basic elements that are needed in gardening.For those of you who are old hands at gardening as well as those who are new gardeners, I would like to briefly share with you a few important items that are essential for a successful garden.

Location of the Garden Site:
Choose a spot that has a sunny location.Sunshine is important because all plants require 6 hours of sunshine per day.The exception is blueberries which only require 5 hours.
Roots compete for moisture and nutrients, so avoid large trees and hedges close by the growing area.Crops growing in shady areas or shadows do poorly.
Also avoid open areas where strong winds blow.Winds can quickly destroy the fragile plant leaves and affect the future growth of plants.
Stay away from low spots where drainage is poor.Plants die for lack of oxygen when the soil is too wet.
To save steps, locate the garden close to the house, compost pile, tools, and water.
If possible, the garden should have a gentle slope to the south.This helps the soil warm up faster in the spring and with frost damage.
Soil
Have a soil test taken to know what you need to add to the soil.In urban areas or near highways, test the soil for lead contamination from car exhaust and industrial pollution.
Decide what fertilizers you will be using: compost, animal manures, ready made fertilizers, etc.Is the compost bin set up and ready to be used?
Planning the Garden: There’s no way to match the value of organizing and planning beforehand.
Orient your garden so that the beds or rows are arranged to run on a north/ south axis.This allows the sun to fall on plants equally as it moves from the east to west.
Place short plants south of tall varieties, thus avoiding the shadows from the taller plants.
Know the last and first frost dates in your area.Here on our farm, in western Maryland, our last frost day is April 20th and the first frost day is October 20th.This gives 180 days for our growing season.
Decide the type of rows or beds used and how they will be planted
Wide rows
Raised beds
Succession planting ( every 2 or 4 weeks )
Inter- cropping ( 2 crops next to each other, such as radishes mixed with carrots )
Size of paths
Perennials and where they are planted.
Keep a record of plantings: if transplanted or direct seeded, when and where planted, variety and quantity, fertilization and record of spraying.
Figure how much you’ll consume from the garden, both fresh and for storage.Plan the amount you need or want and the plants that have the most nutritional value.
Check when the crops will be in season:
long season crops occupy space throughout the whole season- tomatoes, pole beans,
Short season crops mature quickly – spinach, lettuce, peas – and can be follow-up with another crop – beans, squash
Seed Selection
Check for early varieties with short maturity time.If you do successive planting, know how long it will take for a variety to mature.
Some crops need special treatment:
Sugar sweet varieties of corn need isolation from other corn varieties
Soak peas or beans for 24 hours before planting.This helps them to germinate fast and not rot in the ground.
Buy resistant varieties to eliminate diseases.
Check if seeds are treated with fungicide or pesticide.If you do not want to handle seeds with Captan, Thiram or other fungicides, request untreated seeds when you place your order or buy from companies who state they do not treat seeds.
Decide what type of seeds you want – hybrid or open pollinated.Hybrid seeds are generally more vigorous and disease resistant.If you save seeds you need open pollinated ones.I use both types.Some open pollinated varieties are better and cheaper than hybrids, such as Scarlet Nantes carrots and Extra Early Snowball cauliflower.
Extending the Season
It is possible to have vegetables throughout most of the year, but advanced planning is needed.Early, late, and wintering over crops use floating row covers, caps, tunnels, wall-o-water, cold frames, and greenhouses to grow outside the regular season.
Now that all your planning is on paper, fill in your seed order and send it so you are sure to receive it before March.

For decades, zinnias have been the flowering annual of choice for spreading glorious colors throughout the garden as well as for cutting to bring indoors. But it wasn’t always so. When the Spanish first saw zinnia species in Mexico, they thought the flower was so unattractive they named it mal de ojos, or “sickness of the eye!” What changes have been brought about over the years since–in flower colors and shapes, plant sizes, and disease resistance.

The Zinnia Family Tree
There are more than a dozen species of zinnias, members of the Compositae, or daisy family, but only three species are regularly grown in home gardens. All three are annuals and bloom from early summer through the first frosts in autumn—longer in areas that are frost-free. Zinnia elegans, known as common zinnia, is very familiar to gardeners; varieties -tall, medium and dwarf–have been part of gardens for decades. Flowers are available in just about every color except blue. Z. angustifolia (also known as Z. linearis) may be less common in gardens, but is gaining in popularity. The plants have narrower foliage and smaller single flowers. The species has golden-orange flowers, but the variety, ‘Crystal White’ (All-America Selections winner in 1997) offers pure white blooms with yellow centers. ‘Crystal White’ is also more compact than the species, which can spread to 2 feet. Z. angustifolia may overwinter in Zones 9-11. Probably the least known of zinnias is Z. haageana, or the Mexican zinnia. It is disease-resistant, grows to 15 inches, and has small, bicolored flowers; it’s an excellent cut flower because of its long stems.

A Bit of History–Then
Even after seeds of zinnias were sent back to Europe in the 18th century, the plants were not much to look at. Named for Dr. Johann Gottfried Zinn, who wrote the first description of the flower, the genus Zinnia had to wait for the late 19th century to become more successful as a garden annual. Breeding by selection occurred in Germany, Holland, and Italy: ‘Pumila Mixed’ (precursors of the “cut-and-come-again” zinnias) and two selections from that strain, ‘Mammoth’ and ‘Striata’, were brought to this country and enjoyed great success with gardeners. But the start of the zinnia’s real popularity began around 1920 when Bodger Seeds Ltd. introduced the dahlia-flowered ‘Giant Dahlia’. John Bodger discovered it as a natural mutation in a field of ‘Mammoth’ and within the next few years selected the large, flat-flowered ‘California Giant’ from the strain. It was available in separate colors and was considered to be a new trend in plant habit and flower form. It won a gold medal from the Royal Horticultural Society of England. The first tetraploid zinnia, called ‘State Fair’, came from Ferry Morse Seed Company in the 1950’s. (Tetraploids have four, rather than the usual two, sets of chromosomes; they are plants with larger flowers on stronger stems, vigorous growth, and increased disease resistance.) Dwarf selections of Zinnia haageana were introduced: ‘Persian Carpet’ (All-America Selections award, 1952) and ‘Old Mexico’ (AAS, 1962). F1 hybrids waited in the wings–or in the field, so to speak–because of the difficulty of emasculating (removing the male parts) a zinnia without destroying the flower itself. A chance find by breeder John Mondry, working at the time for W. Atlee Burpee, changed all that. He found a plant in the field with flowers that had no petals but were composed entirely of female reproductive parts. They could form seeds only after being cross-pollinated. That discovery led the way to the dwarf F1 Hybrid ‘Peter Pan’ series introduced from 1971 to1980. Yoshiro Arimitsu and Charles Weddle bred seven separate colors that were recognized as AAS Winners, now sold by Goldsmith Seeds, a wholesale seed company. Bodger Seed Ltd introduced the F1 Hybrid ‘Ruffles’ series (‘Scarlet’, AAS 1974; ‘Cherry’ and ‘Yellow’, AAS, 1978), developed by Mondry (who had resigned from Burpee) as cutting flower plants.

And Now–Breakthrough Zinnias
Compact zinnias are “in”–perhaps in response to home gardeners’ smaller plots and the popularity of container gardening. In 1997, ‘Crystal White’, Z. angustifolia bred by Takii & Co, Ltd won an award from AAS; it’s more compact than the species and offers a new color. In 1999 the ‘Profusion’ zinnias, ‘Cherry’ and ‘Orange’, from Sakata Seed Corporation won Gold Medals from AAS–the first in 10 years. They represent a breakthrough in breeding for zinnias. They are interspecific crosses; that is, the result of crossing two species, Z. angustifolia and Z. elegans. They represent the best of both: heat and humidity tolerance, disease resistance, easy maintenance (no deadheading of spent blooms required), pretty 2- to 3-inch single flowers, and compact growth (12 to 18 inches tall). They will be the benchmark for future zinnias, and they open up incredible possibilities for this garden favorite.

Zinnias–in All Their Glory
One of the reasons for the popularity of the zinnia is the diversity of its forms. Like dahlias and chrysanthemums, zinnias have a variety of flower forms and may be single, semidouble, or double. Single-flowered zinnias have just one row of petals and the center of the flower is exposed: Z. angustifolia ‘Crystal White’ is a delightful example. Double-flowered zinnias, with so many rows of petals that the center is hidden, have several shapes. There’s beehive, small blooms with rows of flat petals, such as ‘Small World Cherry’ (AAS, 1982), which really do look like little beehives. Button-type flowers are similar to beehive except the flower is flatter. The edges of each petal on cactus-shaped flowers roll under and the petal twists and bends. The petals on dahlia-flowered zinnias are large and flat and usually semi-double, which means that the flowers have many rows of petals but the center can be seen; they are great to use as cut flowers.

Zinnias also have an amazing number of colors; in fact, flowers come in almost every shade except blue. Most are solid, but some, in particular Z. haageana, are bicolored with a contrasting color at the tip of each petal. You’ll find yellow, orange, cherry, pink, purple, scarlet, and white, as well as one unique chartreuse variety called ‘Envy’.

Heights are an important consideration when planning a garden, and zinnias have growth habits to suit every need. The tall, 3- to 4-foot varieties are best for the middle or rear of a border or in a cutting garden. Dwarf plants grow 8 to 14 inches tall and do well in pots as well as at the front of a garden. Z. angustifolia plants reach only 8 to 15 inches in height with an equal spread; they are excellent in the ground, in pots or hanging containers and as summer-flowering ground covers.

Growing Zinnias From Seed
Zinnias are easy to start from seeds, indoors or outdoors. The seeds of most of them are a good size, too, so they’re a perfect choice for a child to sow in the garden as well. For earlier flowers, and in colder zones, you may want to give the plants a head start by sowing the seeds indoors.

Starting seeds indoors. Zinnias are fast growers, so plan to sow the seeds indoors about 4 to 6 weeks before the average last frost date in your area. In frost-free areas, count back from the date when you’ll be planting tomatoes, impatiens, and other warm-weather annuals in the garden.

Fill a shallow container (flat) or individual peat pots with a commercial seed-starting mix. Moisten the mix and let it drain
Sow the seeds in rows, so the seedlings will be easy to separate when it comes time to transplant them. If you’re using peat pots, sow three to four seeds in each pot. Cover the seeds lightly with a layer of mix and spritz the mix with enough water to moisten it slightly.
Enclose the flat in a sheet of clear plastic wrap or in a plastic bag closed with a twist tie to keep the mix from drying out while the seeds are germinating.
Set the flat in a warm, bright location or under grow-lights. Keep the growing medium at about 75º – 80º F (24º – 26 ºC)
Seedlings should emerge in 6 to 10 days. Remove the plastic cover and keep the mix evenly moist—not soggy—by watering the flat from the bottom to prevent water getting on the foliage.
When the seedlings have at least two sets of true leaves, transplant them into individual 2¼-inch or larger pots. Provide as much sunlight as possible so the young plants don’t get leggy from stretching for sun.
Plant zinnias outdoors when the weather and soil have warmed up, about the time you plant impatiens or peppers. Sowing seeds directly in the garden. Along with some other annuals such as marigolds, zinnias do very well if you sow them outdoors right where you want them to grow. Wait to sow until all danger of frost has passed and the air and soil are warm.
Prepare the soil (see below). It’s easiest to sow the seeds in rows, but you can sow them in groups if you want. Sow smaller seeds (of Z. angustifolia, for instance) about ¼ inch deep and larger seeds ½ inch deep. Place seeds a little more closely spaced than you’ll want the plants to actually be as they grow; if you’re sowing in groups, drop two or three seeds in each shallow hole.
Cover the seeds with soil and water well. Keep the soil moist until the seeds germinate.
When the seedlings have two pairs of leaves, thin them to the correct spacing. If you carefully pull out the unwanted seedlings, you can transplant them to other parts of the garden. Otherwise, simply snip off the seedlings at ground level.

Buying Potted Plants
If you don’t want to grow your plants from seeds, you’ll find many zinnias at your local garden center or nursery. The plants may be labeled with names or with colors only. Growers and garden centers also often sell zinnias in six-packs rather than in individual pots. Those plants will be smaller and may or may not be in bloom, but they should be in bud. It’s actually better to buy plants in packs “green,” those that aren’t in bloom. When you buy plants, look for healthy, green leaves with no discoloration above or underneath. Select plants with fairly compact growth and good branching. If you can’t plant the zinnias the day you bring them home, water them well and set them under a tree or patio cover where they’ll be protected from the drying effect of direct sun.

Planting Zinnias
Selecting a site. Zinnias grow best in full sun, which means six or more hours of direct sun daily. In desert locales and Zones 9 to 11, choose a site that gets some shade at midday and in the late afternoon. They prefer a soil that drains well—whether they’re planted in the ground or in containers—but other than that requirement, they will grow in just about any soil, whether it’s clayey, sandy, or the ideal loam. Preparing the soil. When you have selected a site, amend the soil by digging in a 2-inch (5 cm) layer of compost or peat moss before planting to ensure good drainage and fertility.

Transplanting into the garden. The best time to transplant any plant is on a cloudy day or in late afternoon so that the plants have a chance to get settled in before they have to contend with the drying effects of the sun. Set zinnias in the ground at the same depth they were growing in the pots. If you’re transplanting from flats or six-packs, try to keep as much soil around the roots as possible so they don’t dry out. If you started the plants from seeds in peat pots, set the pots below the soil line because the pots have a tendency to dry out quickly when exposed to the air. Don’t crowd zinnias because air circulation is most important to keep them disease-free. Space taller zinnias (Z. elegans) 12-18 inches apart; dwarf zinnias, 6-8 inches apart; and Z. angustifolia, 6-10 inches apart. Space the new ‘Profusion’ zinnias 12-18 inches apart. If you’re growing zinnias for cutting, stake or cage the plants when you set them in the ground. Unsupported, the stems of taller zinnias won’t grow straight or may flop over. Water the plants immediately after planting.

Caring for Zinnias Through the Season
One of the nicest aspects of zinnias is that part of their maintenance requirements, if you can call it that, is to cut the blooms frequently to keep the plants compact and bushy and producing more flowers. Otherwise, planted in the right site in good soil, they are fairly care-free. There are a few regular garden chores.

Water regularly, if it doesn’t rain. Even though zinnias love hot weather and came originally from arid regions, they do need moisture. Remember to check the soil in containers daily during hot summer weather and water if it’s dry to a depth of 2 inches or more. In really hot, dry weather, you may need to water twice a day. When you water, try not to get moisture on the foliage. Although newer hybrids are mildew resistant, they are not totally free of the disease.
Zinnias aren’t heavy feeders, but fertilize plantings in the garden at least twice during the growing season. Use a balanced granular or water-soluble fertilizer—for instance, one with 20-20-20 on the label. Or, use a slow-release fertilizer when you plant; follow label directions for amounts. Zinnias will bloom into fall, so you may want to give them a boost of fertilizer in late summer.
Mix a timed-release fertilizer into the soilless mix when you plant zinnias in containers or feed them once a month with water soluable fertilizer diluted to the strength recommended on the label for containers.

Tops as Cut Flowers
There are few other garden flowers that are as wonderful as zinnias for cutting to use in arrangements–fresh or dried. With good reason, zinnias have been referred to for years as “cut and come again” flowers: Cut one flower stem above a pair of leaves and, within days, two new stems with flower buds will have taken its place. All Zinnia elegans make good cut flowers. Use the taller kinds in large arrangements; the shorter, dwarf ones in miniature designs. Properly handled, zinnias will last at least a week in a vase before they begin to look “tired.” Zinnia angustifolia is less frequently seen in designs, but the flowers are fairly long-lasting and often add airiness to arrangements.

To gather flowers for fresh arrangements, cut them early in the morning before the sun has had a chance to dry or wilt them. Select blooms that haven’t fully opened–they will continue to open indoors. Buds that have started to open are also good, but tightly closed buds won’t open once they’re cut. Bring a bucket of water into the garden with you and place the stems in it as you cut so the stems don’t become clogged by air bubbles. Once indoors, recut the stems under water, removing any leaves that would be under water, and then let the flowers “rest” for a few hours before arranging them.

To gather zinnias for use in dried arrangements, cut Z. elegans after the morning dew has evaporated. Dry the flowers in a dessicant, such as silica gel (available at garden centers and craft stores). The flowers will dry in about a week. Use large flowers in any arrangement, dwarf hybrids in miniature designs or, with four or five of the stems wired together into a cluster, in larger arrangements.

Zinnias in Containers
Whatever kind of container you choose–windowbox, wooden half-barrel, rectangular or round pot, or hanging basket–you’ll be really pleased with the effect that zinnias create. Because they are available in so many colors and sizes, they lend themselves to striking displays, whether alone or in combination with other annuals. Low-growing zinnias are best for containers; Z. angustifolia and the smaller Z. elegans are excellent in hanging planters.

Planting in containers. Select a container that has drainage holes in the bottom or sides. Fill the container with a lightweight, soilless mix, not soil from the garden because it may not have good drainage and may carry diseases or weed seeds. Garden soil is also heavier–a consideration if you want to move the pot.

Arrange plants, in their nursery pots, on top of the soil until you have a pleasing design. Aim for a combination of taller plants in the center, medium and bushy plants around the middle, and a selection of trailing plants along the edge. Because zinnias like good air circulation, don’t set plants closer together than you would in the ground. When you’re satisfied with the placement, unpot the plants and set them in the mix at the same level they were growing originally.

Water the container well after planting and keep the soil evenly moist through the season. Plants, especially zinnias, in containers perform best if you fertilize them at least monthly with a water-soluble fertilizer, or save yourself the task and incorporate a controlled-release fertilizer in the mix before planting.

Pests and Diseases
Zinnias are basically pest free. For years, though, they have been known to be affected by two fungal diseases: powdery mildew and alternaria blight. Alternaria blight causes reddish brown spots on both foliage and flowers; it is a problem in the south more than any other area. Until recently, powdery mildew (a fungal disease) caused many zinnias to look really awful by late summer or early fall, covering the leaves with a light gray mold. To camouflage the affected foliage of older varieties of zinnias, plant them with shorter annuals in front.

The best offense against the fungus was and is prevention: Don’t get the leaves wet and do space the plants so they have good air circulation. Z. angustifolia and Z. haageana are more mildew resistant than most Z. elegans. Newer plants, especially the interspecific crosses of Z. elegans and Z. angustifolia, such as ‘Profusion’, are very resistant to powdery mildew.

The National Garden Bureau recognizes Eleanor Lewis as the author of this fact sheet. Four experts reviewed the text before publishing. We wish to thank them for their comments. They are Howard Bodger, Bodger Seeds Ltd.; David Seitz, W. Atlee Burpee; Glenn Goldsmith, Goldsmith Seeds and Dennis Kromer, Wild West Seed Inc. The photography was taken by Liz Ball, Garden Portraits or Tom Eltzroth. The logo drawing was created by Nola Nielsen. The fact sheet was designed by Johanna McCormick.

The ‘Year of the Zinnia’ fact sheet is provided as a service from the National Garden Bureau. The use of this fact sheet is unrestricted. Please credit the National Garden Bureau as the source. We offer slides or black and white prints to journalists for illustrations. Please use the enclosed post card to inform us of your photo requests.

Slide Set for libraries or lectures. The ‘Year of the Zinnia and Sweet Corn’ are available as a 14 piece slide set with scripts for lectures. Please send a check, bank or postal money order for $12.00. We will mail you the slide set and scripts upon receipt of your payment.

The National Garden Bureau is a non profit organization and recognizes the seed company members that generously donate funds for this educational program. In 2001, it will be the ‘Year of the Centaurea and Basil’.

Provided by the National Gardening Bureau.

More than 600 Recipes for Homemade Treats

Baking: The word itself conjures up images of warmth and festivity. What better way to celebrate a special occasion than with a home-baked cake or pie? But you don’t have to wait for an occasion: You can make even the most humdrum day sparkle with a fresh-from-the-oven batch of brownies, savory herb focaccia, or the surprise of after-school coffee cake or muffins.

Whether you grew up with homemade treats like these or relied on buying favorites from a bakery, you’ll find that these triple-tested recipes–more than 600 in all–will bring back delicious memories–and help you create new ones for family and friends.

In Good Housekeeping Baking you’ll find old-time delights as well as specials that may be new to you–from crowd-pleasing bar cookies and neighborly quick breads to silky custard pies and big-city cheesecakes–along with some appealing specialties you might not have thought of baking, such as crackers and soufflés. Try some of our internationally inspired recipes, too, including sturdy Italian and Greek breads, elegant French fruit tarts, spicy German cookies, and buttery Danish pastries.

You’ll learn how to decorate party cakes and form fancy crusts for pies. And it’s not all sweets: We give you recipes for pizzas, focaccias, quiches, and other savory pastries as well. How-to photos and helpful hints ensure that you’ll get it right the first time and every time.

There’s no time like the present! Choose from any of our hundreds of irresistible treats: Good Housekeeping Baking is filled with can’t-miss recipes that will create–or re-create–many happy memories.

Contents

Foreword 7
Baking Basics 13
Cookies 24
Quick Breads & Crackers 76
Yeast Breads 114
Soufflés, Custards & Baked Desserts 168
Pies & Tarts 202
Specialty Pastry 258
Cakes 290
Frostings, Fillings & Flourishes 350
Index 367

Excerpt
The following is an excerpt from the book: Good Housekeeping Baking: More than 600 Recipes for Homemade Treats by Good Housekeeping (Editor)
Published by Hearst Books; 0688166164 ; $30.00US; Oct. 99
Copyright © 1999 Hearst Communications

Almond Leaves
Prep 65 minutes plus cooling
Bake 7 to 9 minutes per batch

A spatula-like stencil with a leaf-shaped cut-out is used to make these autumnal almond cookies.

1/3 CUP ALMOND PASTE (3 1/2 OUNCES), CRUMBLED
1/4 CUP SUGAR
3 TABLESPOONS BUTTER OR MARGARINE, SOFTENED
1/4 TEASPOON ALMOND EXTRACT
1 LARGE EGG, SLIGHTLY BEATEN
1/3 CUP PLUS 2 TABLESPOONS ALL-PURPOSE FLOUR

1 In small bowl, with mixer at medium speed, beat almond paste until softened. Add sugar and beat until smooth (a few small lumps will remain). Add butter and beat until well blended. Reduce speed to low and beat in egg and almond extract until incorporated. Stir in flour until just combined, scraping bowl occasionally with rubber spatula.

2 Preheat oven to 350° F. Generously butter 2 large cookie sheets. Spread a teaspoonful of batter through leaf spatula and smooth 1/8 inch thick with small wet metal spatula. Repeat with remaining batter, leaving 2 inches in between leaves. Bake 7 to 9 minutes, rotating sheets between upper and lower racks halfway through baking, until edges are golden. With wide spatula, transfer cookies to wire rack to cool completely.

3 Repeat with remaining cookie batter. Makes about 3 dozen cookies.

EACH COOKIE: ABOUT 35 CALORIES, 1 G PROTEIN,
4 G CARBOHYDRATE, 2 G TOTAL FAT (1 G SATURATED),
0 G FIBER, 9 MG CHOLESTEROL, 15 MG SODIUM.

CHOCOLATE-ALMOND LEAVES Prepare as above; cool. Melt 3 1/2 squares (3 1/2 ounces) semisweet chocolate. Spread chocolate in thin layer over cooled cookies, marking veins of leaves with edge of thin metal spatula. Let stand on wire racks until chocolate has set.

EACH COOKIE: ABOUT 50 CALORIES, 1 G PROTEIN,
6 G CARBOHYDRATE, 3 G TOTAL FAT (1 G SATURATED),
0 G FIBER, 9 MG CHOLESTEROL, 15 MG SODIUM.

Pumpkin Muffins
PREP 15 MINUTES / BAKE 25 TO 30 MINUTES

Pumpkin muffins are perfect Halloween party fare and are always welcome on the autumn breakfast table or the Thanksgiving bread basket. For a change, add 1 cup raisins or 1 cup chopped walnuts or pecans.

3 1/2 CUPS ALL-PURPOSE FLOUR
1 TABLESPOON BAKING POWDER
2 TEASPOONS PUMPKIN-PIE SPICE*
1 TEASPOON BAKING SODA
1 TEASPOON SALT
3 LARGE EGGS
1 CAN (16 OUNCES) SOLID PACK PUMPKIN (NOT PUMPKIN PIE MIX)
3/4 CUP BUTTER OR MARGARINE (1 1/2 STICKS), MELTED
2/3 CUP PLUS 2 TABLESPOONS PACKED BROWN SUGAR
2/3 CUP HONEY
2/3 CUP MILK
1 TEASPOON GROUND CINNAMON

1 Preheat oven to 400° F. Grease twenty-four 2 1/2″ by 1 1/4″ muffin-pan cups or line with paper baking liners. In large bowl stir together flour, baking powder, pumpkin-pie spice, baking soda, and salt.

2 In medium bowl, with wire whisk or fork, mix eggs, pumpkin melted butter, 2/3 cup brown sugar, honey, and milk. Stir egg mixture into flour mixture just until flour is moistened (batter will be lumpy).

3 Spoon batter into prepared muffin-pan cups. In small cup, combine remaining 2 tablespoons brown sugar and cinnamon; sprinkle over muffins. Bake 25 to 30 minutes, rotating pans between upper and lower racks halfway through baking, or until tops of muffins are browned and toothpick inserted in center of muffin comes out clean. Immediately remove muffins from pan; serve warm. Or cool on wire rack to serve later. Makes 2 dozen muffins.

*Or use 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon, 3/4 teaspoon ground ginger, 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg, and 1/8 teaspoon ground cloves.

EACH MUFFIN: ABOUT 205 CALORIES, 3 G PROTEIN, 31 G CARBOHYDRATE, 8 G TOTAL FAT (4 G SATURATED), 1 G FIBER, 43 MG CHOLESTEROL, 285 MG SODIUM.

Pumpkin Crème Caramel
PREP 30 MINUTES PLUS OVERNIGHT TO CHILL
BAKE 55 MINUTES

You might consider a change in your Thanksgiving menu after tasting this luscious caramel-drenched pumpkin custard. Be sure to used canned solid pack pumpkin, not pumpkin-pie mix for this recipe.

6 STRIPS (3″ BY 1″ EACH) ORANGE PEEL
1 1/4 CUPS SUGAR
1/4 CUP WATER
1 CAN (12 OUNCES) EVAPORATED MILK
1 CUP HEAVY OR WHIPPING CREAM
1 CUP SOLID PACK PUMPKIN (NOT PUMPKIN-PIE MIX)
6 LARGE EGGS
1/4 CUP ORANGE-FLAVORED LIQUEUR
1 TEASPOON VANILLA EXTRACT
1 TEASPOON GROUND CINNAMON
PINCH GROUND NUTMEG
PINCH SALT

1 In 1-quart saucepan, heat orange peel, 3/4 cup sugar, and water to boiling over high heat; cover and cook 10 minutes. With fork, remove orange peel and discard. Continue cooking sugar mixture about 3 minutes longer, until amber in color. Pour caramel into 9″ by 5″ loaf pan, swirling to coat bottom. (Hold pan with pot holders to protect hands from heat of caramel.) Set pan aside.

2 In heavy 2-quart saucepan, heat evaporated milk, cream, and remaining 1/2 cup sugar just to boiling over medium-high heat.

3 Meanwhile, preheat oven to 350° F. In large bowl with wire whisk, mix pumpkin eggs, liqueur, vanilla, cinnamon nutmeg, and salt until combined.

4 Gradually whisk hot milk mixture into pumpkin mixture until combined. Pour pumpkin mixture through medium-mesh sieve into prepared loaf pan. Place loaf pan in 13″ by 9″ roasting pan; place in oven. Carefully pour boiling water into roasting pan to come three-quarters up side of loaf pan. Bake 55 minutes, or until knife inserted 1 inch from edge of custard comes out clean (center will jiggle slightly). Remove loaf pan from roasting pan to cool on wire rack 1 hour. Cover and refrigerate crème caramel overnight.

5 To unmold, run small metal spatula around sides of loaf pan; invert crème caramel onto serving plate, allowing caramel syrup to drip from pan onto loaf (some caramel may remain in loaf pan). Makes 12 servings.

EACH SERVING: ABOUT 245 CALORIES, 6 G PROTEIN, 28 G CARBOHYDRATE, 12 G TOTAL FAT (7 G SATURATED), 0.5 G FIBER, 143 MG CHOLESTEROL, 85 MG SODIUM.

French Apple Tart
PREP 1 HOUR 30 MINUTES
BAKE 1 HOUR 12 TO 20 MINUTES

Thin apple slices are arranged over a filling of freshly-made applesauce and glazed with apricot preserves.

BAKED SWEET PASTRY CRUST FOR 11-INCH TART (PAGE 208)
2 LEMONS
4 LARGE GRANNY SMITH APPLES (9 POUNDS), PEELED AND CORED
4 LARGE GOLDEN DELICIOUS APPLES (2 POUNDS), PEELED AND CORED
6 TABLESPOONS BUTTER OR MARGARINE
1/2 CUP PLUS 9 TABLESPOONS SUGAR
1 1/2 TEASPOONS VANILLA EXTRACT
1/4 TEASPOON GROUND NUTMEG
1/3 CUP APRICOT PRESERVES, PRESSED THROUGH A SIEVE

1 Prepare dough as directed through chilling in 11-inch fluted tart pan. Line and weight tart shell, bake, and cool as directed.

2 From lemons, finely grate 1 1/2 teaspoons peel and squeeze 2 tablespoons juice. Reserve 2 Granny Smiths and 1 Golden Delicious apple for top. Slice remaining apples. In large skillet, melt 4 tablespoons butter over medium-high heat. Add sliced apples and cook 5 minutes. Cover, reduce heat to medium, and cook 15 minutes, or until very tender. Stir in lemon peel and juice, 1/2 cup sugar, vanilla, and nutmeg. Cook, stirring frequently, 25 to 30 minutes until puree is very thick and has reduced to 2 1/4 cups. Cool to room temperature.

3 Meanwhile, preheat oven to 375° F.

4 Thinly slice remaining apples. Spoon puree into tart shell and spread evenly. Arrange apple slices, overlapping in concentric circles, on puree. Melt remaining 2 tablespoons butter. Brush apples slices with butter and sprinkle with remaining 2 tablespoons sugar.

5 Bake 45 to 50 minutes, until apples are tender when pierced with a knife. Cool tart on wire rack 10 minutes. Remove side of pan and cool completely. When cool brush apple slices with sieved preserves. Makes 12 servings.

EACH SERVING: ABOUT 355 CALORIES, 2 G PROTEIN, 52 G CARBOHYDRATE, 16 G TOTAL FAT (10 G SATURATED), 3 G FIBER, 59 MG CHOLESTEROL, 210 MG SODIUM.

Dundee Cake
PREP 35 MINUTES PLUS OVERNIGHT TO STAND
BAKE 2 HOURS TO 2 HOURS 15 MINUTES

Somewhat more subtle than a holiday fruitcake, this popular Scottish teacake is topped with whole almonds and lightly flavored with orange.

2 CUPS ALL-PURPOSE FLOUR
1 TEASPOON BAKING POWDER
1/4 TEASPOON SALT
1/4 TEASPOON GROUND ALLSPICE
1/4 TEASPOON GROUND CINNAMON
2/3 CUP BLANCHED WHOLE ALMONDS
1 CUP SUGAR
2/3 CUP GOLDEN RAISINS
2/3 CUP DRIED CURRANTS
1/2 CUP DICED CANDIED CITRON
1/2 CUP DICED CANDIED ORANGE OR LEMON PEEL
1/2 CUP RED CANDIED CHERRIES, CHOPPED
1 CUP BUTTER OR MARGARINE (2 STICKS), SOFTENED
4 LARGE EGGS
2 TABLESPOONS ORANGE-FLAVORED LIQUEUR

1 Preheat oven to 300° F. Grease and flour 8-inch springform pan.

2 In medium bowl stir together flour, baking powder, salt, allspice, and cinnamon.

3 In food processor with knife blade attached, combine 1/3 cup almonds and 1/4 cup sugar. Process until almonds are finely ground. In medium bowl, mix ground-almond mixture, raisins, currants, citron, orange peel and cherries.

4 In large bowl, with mixer at low speed, beat remaining 3/4 cup sugar and butter until blended. Increase speed to medium-high and beat 5 minutes, or until light and creamy. Add eggs, 1 at a time, beating well after each addition. Beat in orange liqueur. Reduce speed to low; beat in flour mixture until blended, scraping bowl (batter will be thick). Stir in fruit mixture.

5 Spoon batter into prepared pan, spreading evenly. Arrange remaining 1/3 cup almonds on top of batter. Bake 2 hours to 2 hours 15 minutes, until toothpick inserted in center of cake comes out clean. Cover pan loosely with foil after 1 hour to prevent top from overbrowning. Cool in pan on wire rack 20 minutes. With small knife, loosen cake from side of pan; remove pan side. Cool completely on wire rack. When cool, remove pan bottom and wrap cake in plastic wrap and then in foil. Let stand overnight before serving. Makes 20 servings.

EACH SERVING: ABOUT 290 CALORIES, 4 G PROTEIN, 40 G CARBOHYDRATE, 13 G TOTAL FAT (6 G SATURATED), 1 G FIBER, 67 MG CHOLESTEROL, 180 MG SODIUM.

Copyright © 1999 Hearst Communications

The Perennial Plant Association has awarded the title Perennial Plant of the Year 2000 to Scabiosa columbaria `Butterfly Blue’. A member of the Dipsacaceae family, the nearly flat gray-green basal foliage of the pincushion flower hugs the ground. Lacy lavender-blue, twoinch flowers bloom on slender 12- to 15-inch stems from late spring through early fall. Flowering begins in mid-spring with repeated flowering throughout the growing season when consistently deadheaded. In some climates `Butterfly Blue’ flowers until late December. Pincushion flower derives its common name from the stamens which stand above the petals resembling pins stuck in a pincushion. The leaves are hairy, ovate to lance-shaped, with the upper foliage smaller and finely divided creating a mounded rosette six to eight inches high and 12 to 15 inches wide.

History
Forty years ago Farplants grower, David Tristram, admired this exceptional plant in a garden in Ireland. Mr. Tristram obtained cuttings and grew the unique Scabiosa in his Irish garden for 15 years before moving to England where he grew the beloved plant in his Sussex garden until the early 1980s. Marketing cooperatively, Farplants and the English nursery, Blakedown, selected Scabiosa columbaria `Butterfly Blue’ for their first venture in promoting plants. Indeed, `Butterfly Blue’ has become an international winner.

Propagation Scabiosa columbaria `Butterfly Blue’ can be propagated by stem cuttings. Two-node tip cuttings of soft vegetative growth should be taken before flowering. Cuttings are placed under mist for approximately two weeks with 68°F bottom heat. Roots will form in about eight weeks at which time the cuttings can be transplanted to quarts or gallons. After transplanting, quarts should be ready for sale in four to six weeks, and gallons in six to eight weeks. Cuttings taken during the winter should receive a one-percent IBA or KIBA drench to enhance rooting. Botrytis may occur on stem cuttings during cloudy weather.

Cultivation
An excellent cultivar of an oldfashioned favorite, this long-blooming perennial for full sun to light shade grows best in well-drained soil amended with organic matter and a neutral to slightly alkaline pH. `Butterfly Blue’ pincushion flower requires moist soil during the growing season. Very well-drained soil is a requirement for winter survival. This lovely perennial does not appear to be fazed by summer heat and will bloom throughout the growing season when regularly deadheaded. No insect or disease problems have been reported on wellgrown, healthy plants. Bare-root plants or divisions should be planted so the emerging buds are just below the soil surface. Container-grown plants can be planted anytime during the growing season 12 to 18 inches apart. The crown of `Butterfly Blue’ should be planted at the depth it was growing in the container to prevent crown rot. It is recommended that the basal foliage not be cut back in the fall. Winter-damaged foliage should be removed in the spring.

Landscape Uses Scabiosa columbaria `Butterfly Blue’ is an excellent front-of-the-border plant to use in combination with annuals, bulbs, and perennials. The foliage remains clean and unblemished throughout the season. The delicate blue flowers add softness to the garden when massed with boldercolored plants of yellow, bright pink, or red. They also work well with cooler tones of white, silver, and blue. Despite its delicate appearance, `Butterfly Blue’ is a sturdy plant. The plants do not require staking. During the summer butterflies find the nectar-rich flowers. `Butterfly Blue’ may be combined with Coreopsis verticillata `Moonbeam’, Dianthus `Bath’s Pink’, and Pennisetum alopecuroides for a three-season, carefree garden. The cool lavenderblue flowers of `Butterfly Blue’ shine against the warm, burnished tones of fall as one of the last blue-flowering perennials. With its long-lasting blossoms, `Butterfly Blue’ is an excellent choice for smaller flower arrangements either as cut flowers or grown in decorative containers. The outstanding attributes of Scabiosa columbaria `Butterfly Blue’ are sure to place this underused perennial in the top group of favorite longblooming perennials.

Provided by the Perennial Plant Association.