The Earth

In my fields, I have practiced mulching for many years and have become a believer in its benefits. I have found that it keeps the soil moist and friable, uniform in temperature, and easy to work. It also helps keep the rain from splashing mud on plants, the ground moisture from evaporating, and weeds from growing. Every garden needs a little mulch.

Mulch is a layer of material, organic or inorganic, spread on the ground near plants or in the aisles. It protects the soil from the effects of the wind, rain, and the hot sun. During a long dry spell, I get by with a lot less watering. Mulch moderates the soil temperature keeping it a little cooler in summer and warmer in winter. The best part is that it cuts down on the time spent on garden upkeep.

Materials Used

Any number of materials are used for mulch – grass clippings, paper, straw, sawdust, or polyethylene black plastic film. I prefer to use organic materials because they can be incorporated in the soil after the growing season, thus adding valuable nutrients.

• Grass clippings are one of the best and most commonly used mulches. When they decompose, they leave nitrogen in the soil. Clippings must be left to dry for a day or two by spreading them in the sun before they are used. If they are fresh and moist they will mat and rot, becoming slimy and foul smelling.

• Newspaper is great when used under other mulches. Never use newspaper by itself because it acts as a wick and pulls moisture from the soil. I place four sheets of newspaper (black print only; colored print has toxins in it) on the area I want to mulch. I then spread the grass clippings or straw on top, covering the paper completely. When paper is used, only two or three inches of an other material are placed on top. Huge quantities of mulching material are not needed. Newspaper, used with a mulch, is also good because the paper will block weeds from coming up through the mulch. Any seeds in the mulch material will not go down into the soil to sprout.

• Straw is a good mulch, but weed seeds may come with it. This is why paper under the straw will save a lot of headaches. Avoid hay as mulch — usually it brings weed problems.

• Sawdust is an excellent mulch, but must be partially decomposed before applying. Otherwise it will deplete the soil of nutrients as it breaks down. If fresh sawdust is used, apply extra nitrogen to the soil under the sawdust. I use newspaper instead of nitrogen under the fresh sawdust.

• Black plastic does not build the soil or contribute nutrients, but it does deter weeds and conserves moisture. Rain does not penetrate this material, so drip irrigation must be placed under it. A problem with black plastic is that it tends to absorb the heat of the sun and raise the soil temperature – sometimes very high. A layer of straw or grass clippings on top of the plastic will help.

The initial cost of these mulches is offset by the fact that they can be recycled from year to year.

Special Benefits of Mulch:

• Insect Barrier – Some insects, including the Colorado potato beetle, striped cucumber beetle and spotted cucumber beetle, will avoid a mulch of straw.

• Water Conservation – Many times conserving water will be as important as watering the crops. During July or August dry spells, make sure the garden loses as little water as possible. Mulching helps protect bare soil from evaporation.

• Erosion – A layer of mulch will protect your soil from rain that causes erosion.

• Weeding – Mulching prevents weeds from growing. Weeds need light to grow and mulch shades out the light.

Do’s and Dont’s of Mulching

1. Mulching too early in the spring keeps the soil from warming up and encourages rot during excessively wet periods.

2. Wait until the soil has warmed up in the late Spring, then put mulch on the spring crops. This will help to delay bolting.

3. Mulch the summer crops late in June when the soil has warmed and will continue to remain warm. This prevents the soil from becoming hot and dry. Mulching will keep the soil at an even temperature around the plant roots.

4. Leave a gap between mulch and plant stems for air circulation.

5. The best time to mulch is right after a rain.

6. If the mulch is left on over the winter, it will encourage earthworms and beneficial microorganisms. They will eventually devour the organic mulch and turn it into good humus

At the end of the season, when the mulch is turned into the soil, it will be broken down and continue to enrich the soil’s humus content.

Integrated Pest Management

Thrips continue to be a problem through the summer months. They can infest a variety of flowering plants including hibiscus, hydrangea, and roses. Continue to look for signs of damage such as curled leaves, stunted growth, and white streaks on the foliage. Monitor your plants with a simple beat test. Tap the branch onto a sheet of white paper and look for small, thin, brown or orange thrips on the paper. Five or more thrips per beat may warrant spraying with an insecticide labeled for thrips, but first look closely for signs of the minute pirate bug, a natural predator of thrips. These small, black insects feed on thrips and also on pollen, so look for them on the flowers.

Beware of yellow jacket nests in the ground. These insects are beneficial when they feed on insect pests and are important pollinators, but when drought shrinks their food supply, they become dependent on trash, food crumbs, and sweet liquids found around our homes. They defend their food sources by stinging repeatedly at the slightest provocation. Keep your living areas clean of food debris and keep your trash and food containers covered.

Take the time to inspect your pine trees for pine sawflies. The larvae are an inch long and yellow-green with black dots. They consume all of the needles on a single branch before moving on to the next one. Small trees can be completely defoliated in a few days, so check them often. These insects are easy to remove by hand since they feed in groups. Horticultural oil can be used if the infestation is severe.

August is the time to monitor your garden for the presence of Oriental beetles. In the larval stage, the white grubs can be very damaging to plants as they feed on the roots of annuals, perennials, shrubs, and trees. Very similar to the Japanese beetle grub, the grub of the Oriental beetle can be identified by the pattern of bristles on the underside of the abdomen. Oriental beetle grubs have two straight lines of bristles; in Japanese beetles they appear in a “V” shape. You can monitor for the grubs by first observing the appearance of your plants. Oriental beetle grubs prefer plants indigenous to Asia such as flowering cherries and Chinese elm. Observe these plants for signs of stunted growth, which is the result of a loss of feeder roots. In the fall, look for grubs in the top few inches of soil. If there are more than a few per square foot, you may want to consider treating the area with a pesticide to control the grubs in the coming spring.

Be on the lookout for the Asian longhorned beetle. Native to China, the beetles were first spotted in Brooklyn, NY in 1997. They have since been detected in nearly every other state with port facilities. The large white grubs of this beetle feed on the heartwood of a variety of trees including maple, horsechestnut, boxelder, poplar, black locust, white mulberry, willow, and elm. They are particularly fond of sugar maple. The adult beetle can be seen from July to September and is easy to spot. The adult is an inch or more in length, glossy black with white spots, and long black and white segmented antennae. Besides the unmistakable appearance of the adult, look for signs on your trees such as sap flow, large holes, and sawdust. If you think you have spotted this pest, notify your state department of agriculture immediately.

Mid to late August is a good time to plant your salad greens such as lettuce and spinach. The shorter days and cooler nights of late summer and early fall make ideal conditions for a second crop of these cool season vegetables. The summer heat and drought conditions we’re experiencing this year have reduced the slug populations, so damage from these slimy pests should be minimal.

Growlabs

What better way to help children learn about gardening than to encourage them to grow plants themselves? That is the idea behind the GrowLab program for school children sponsored by the National Garden Bureau (NGB) in a joint venture with the National Gardening Association and the National Science Foundation. In a matching funds program, NGB and participating seed companies donate 6 GrowLabs per year to schools (K-8) across the country. Each GrowLab is accompanied by a complete starter kit containing pots, potting mix, labels, fertilizer, insecticidal soap, watering can, and seeds.

NGB also provides recipients of GrowLab units with supporting curriculum materials such as videos and follow-up newsletters, and arranges for a local seed company or expert to “adopt” participating classes. These mentors are available as a resource for the teacher, offering advice and information in addition to replenishing seeds as needed.

Kinder “gardeners”

Brenda Kukay, a kindergarten teacher at the Mitchell School deep in the city of St. Louis, Missouri, has had her GrowLab for almost 6 of the 11 years she has been teaching. Hers was the first school district to participate in the NGB program, and she was among the teachers sent from 5 schools for training in Vermont. Partnered with the world famous Missouri Botanic Garden, over the years she has integrated the GrowLab into her science curriculum to the delight of classes.

Brenda introduces her kindergartners to science with GrowLab activities around seed planting, germination and plant growth. Her tiny ones learn by the inquiry method to ask good questions and then set about to answer them through a hands-on science experience. They sharpen observation skills as they watch for lettuce seeds to sprout. Then, when they harvest their lettuce crop, they enjoy eating the salad. They also plant peas, beans, corn, and other greens, depending on what seeds are available. In the spring they plant their young seedlings outdoors in a garden tended by the summer school students who plan to sell them to raise money for the program.

Brenda has a longtime interest in gardening and has cared for the ornamental garden areas at the school in her spare time. With this enthusiasm and the support of the periodic GrowLab newsletter, she guides her charges through the joys of growing. Of course, they are simultaneously learning other things. They learn math by measuring, estimating, and creating graphs and charts. Their writing skills are enhanced as they record their activities in their science journals. When publication resumes, they will write articles about their seed growing activities for the school newspaper.

Lots of Learning

In Brenda’s experience this is a program that teaches both students and teacher. She feels she is exposing some of her class to a totally unfamiliar world. She has discovered that some of these apartment-dwelling city kids are so removed from the natural growing cycle that they have trouble conceptualizing the future of the seeds they plant. She reports that, when asked what will be the result of planting tomato seeds, for instance, some students will venture guesses as wide-ranging as corn, beans, even a dog! She has had to do some research, herself, to master the technical intricacies of providing appropriate amounts of light for various crops.

The GrowLab program has had a halo effect at Mitchell School. Many of Brenda Kukay’s colleagues have shown an interest in what she does and are considering the potential of a GrowLab in their classrooms. The two official ones in her building are proving to be so popular that 3 more homemade versions have appeared in other classrooms. She, herself, is hoping to have a wheeled model that she can move about the room easily. One teacher, whose classroom lacks the space for a GrowLab has found room for a worm composting operation for her students. Their product is contributed to the growing activities in Brenda’s room. Teachers like the flexibility of the GrowLab units. They are useful at almost any grade or ability level. They can be integrated into various study units, or used as separate study units or for after school clubs.

The GrowLab program has influence beyond the school walls as well. Occasionally parents report that the children are asking questions at home and taking an interest in plants. Some kids are strengthening bonds with gardening grandparents. Ultimately, students who learn with GrowLabs learn a lot more than just about plants–or even science.

For More Information

The National Garden Bureau considers children’s gardening one of its most important missions. The non-profit organization intends to continue donating GrowLabs to schools throughout the 21st Century. The Bureau and member companies have placed 21 GrowLabs in schools, and will donate an additional 6 labs this fall.

For more information about donating a GrowLab and other educational programs, please contact: The National Gardening Association, 180 Flynn Avenue, Burlington, VT. 05401 phone: 1-800-LETSGRO. Or visit their excellent website at WWW.garden.org where each month the kids and classrooms section features new lessons and articles from the Growing Ideas educators’ journal. The site highlights curriculum resources that support garden based learning, connections with e-mail pals in growing classrooms, and links to other plant and garden based sites.

What is a GrowLab?

GrowLab units donated to classrooms across the nation are commercially designed and constructed for self-contained, tabletop seed-starting and seedling management. Essentially a metal frame that supports two 4 foot long easily adjusted fixtures that hold fluorescent growing lights, each unit is 52 inches wide and 23 inches deep, 39 inches tall. Each is equipped with a timer, convenient trays to hold seedling containers or potted plants and a tent-like cover to help regulate humidity.

GrowLab activities

Suggestions for integrating the GrowLab into a science curriculum are provided in the materials that accompany the unit and subsequent issues of the newsletters. However, the only limits on its use are the imaginations of the teachers and students.

Propagation: germinating seeds, growing seedlings, rooting cuttings, repotting

Experimentation: with fertilizer, light, humidity, growing media

Production: bedding plants for sale or gifts; vegetables for eating

GrowLabs Promote:

Art
Botany
Business skills
Chemistry
Environmental studies
Geography
Mathematics
New foods
Plant identification
Recycling
Responsibility and follow through
Self-esteem
Scientific observation
Teamwork
Time management
Writing