Home Landscaping Practices to Protect Water Quality

In Virginia, we rely on reservoir systems, wells, and other sources for our freshwater. In recent years, our previously plentiful clean water supplies have been threatened not only by overuse, but also by contamination. Pollutants are carried down with water soaking through the soil to the water table. Runoff (water that does not soak into the ground) flows over the surface, often taking soil and polluting chemicals with it into lakes and streams.
Home lawns and landscapes may contribute to this water pollution when homeowners apply pesticides and fertilizers carelessly. By using pesticides and fertilizers properly and only when necessary and following recommended landscape practices, you can do your part to protect our lakes, streams, and drinking water for the future.

Identify the Problem before Using Pesticides
When diagnosing a plant problem, remember that most problems are not caused by insects or disease. Severe cold or heat, waterlogging or drought, lawn mower damage, and carelessly applied herbicides frequently injure plants. Pesticides will be useless for these kinds of plant damage.
Be aware that even if an insect or disease is present that may not be the cause of your plant problem – the original source of damage to your plant may no longer be present. Also, poor growing conditions can make a plant more susceptible to pests and are often the cause of “pest” problems.
If you determine your problem is caused by a pest, identify the insect, disease, or weed before choosing a pesticide. Ask yourself: Is the injury severe enough to require control? If so, what options are available? Is chemical control the best option? Can the pest be controlled by a; pesticide at this stage of its life cycle? Is there a pesticide labeled for use on the plant involved and effective against the pest?
Often no pesticide is required for proper control – but if needed, the right pesticide must be applied at the right time to control a particular pest.
Refer to expert information. Talk to your Extension agent, or an experienced horticulturist at your local garden center – or check the symptoms against a good chart or reference book.
Use Pesticides Properly
Plan ahead to eliminate or reduce storage and disposal problems. Buy only what you will need for one season. Purchase pesticides in formulations with minimal packaging, if possible. For example, some herbicides are now available in a tablet form that can be dissolved in water.
Always read the label completely before spraying. Measure accurately and according to label instructions. Mix only the amount needed to do the job at hand. Follow the label’s instructions for application method and safety measures. Note specific warnings and precautions – they are there for your protection!
Never spray near water or when there is wind. Pesticide can drift directly into streams or drainage ditches, polluting our waterways. Pesticide may also drift into unintended areas, damaging desirable plants.
Buy and mix only what you will use – unused pesticide is difficult to dispose of properly. Never pour pesticides down the sink or into storm drains. If you have extra pesticide mixed, to dispose of it legally you must spray it on plants listed on the label at no more than the allowable rate. This means you cannot respray the same area (this would exceed the allowable rate) and you cannot spray excess pesticide labeled for tomatoes on the lawn (unless home lawns also happens to be listed on the label). Consult your Extension agent for advice on disposal of excess or unusable pesticide.
Clean liquid containers by rinsing the contents into the spray applicator when you mix the last batch. To rinse, fill container about one fourth full with clean water, recap tightly, and shake. Allow 30 seconds for the container to drain between each rinse. Repeat three times.
Dispose of empty containers as directed by the product label. If possible and appropriate, break or puncture the container so it will never be reused. Containers destined for a sanitary landfill should be wrapped securely in newspaper before disposal.
Apply Fertilizer Properly for the Best Result
Always apply fertilizer at the right rate and time. See your local Extension agent for recommendations. Too much fertilizer or fertilizer applied when the plant cannot take up the nutrients can damage plants and contribute to water contamination.
Calibrate your spreader for each type of fertilizer so you can apply the right amount.
Have your soil tested for fertility and acidity/alkalinity, and follow recommendations on the soil test report. See your Extension agent for forms and instructions.
Use slow-release fertilizers for most ornamental plants, including lawns, especially in areas with sandy soil. These fertilizers are less likely to allow nitrates to wash through the soil into the groundwater.
Sweep spilled fertilizer off pavement before it is washed away by rain or irrigation. Nitrogen and phosphorus from fertilizers have’ been associated with many environmental problems, including excessive algae growth, depletion of the water’s oxygen supply, and suffocation of aquatic life.
Reduce Erosion
Because soil sediment makes up most of the pollutant carried by runoff and most of the phosphates and pesticides entering Virginia’s waters are attached to this sediment, controlling erosion will help control water pollution. Landscaping can help control erosion by holding soil in place and reducing runoff.
Plant a vigorous ground cover on steep slopes to reduce erosion and runoff. Turfgrass is often impractical here because mowing is difficult and dangerous on steep terrain.
Build terraces or a retaining wall on slopes. These can intercept runoff, giving water time to soak into the ground, and can make attractive planting beds. Be aware that altering the soil level near established trees can seriously damage their root systems.
Don’t leave soil bare over the winter. Plant a cover crop, such as annual rye, or place mulch on the soil.
Use Good Landscape Practices
By taking good care of your landscape plants, you can reduce the need for pesticides that could potentially endanger water quality. Good planting and maintenance practices can also promote healthy, attractive plants that can add value to your property.
Mulch with shredded bark or other organic material around planting beds, trees, and shrubs. Mulch helps keep down weeds, protects trees from lawn mower wounds, helps reduce erosion, and protects roots near the soil surface from hot, dry summer weather.
Prune dead or diseased branches out of trees and shrubs.
Use the right plant in the right place. Placing plants where they will do their very best can help reduce pesticide needs. For example, planting a rose in full sun with good air circulation can reduce black spot.

Keep your Lawn Healthy
A properly maintained lawn looks beautiful and also helps protect water quality. Healthy grass needs less pesticide and will be better able to take up fertilizer, reducing the chance of pollutants washing through the soil and reaching our water supplies.
Mow high and often. Setting your mower at the highest recommended level for your grass type (2 1/2 to 3 inches for Kentucky bluegrass and fescue, I inch for, bermudagrass) helps keep out weeds, especially crabgrass, and makes your lawn more resistant to drought and disease.
Leave grass clippings on the lawn. They add nutrients to the soil, lessening the need for commercial fertilizer. Clippings also add organic matter, helping to reduce runoff.
Fertilize cool-season grasses (Kentucky bluegrass, fescue, ryegrass) in the fall. Fertilize warm-season grasses (bermudagrass, zoysiagrass) in the summer.
Follow Virginia Cooperative Extension guidelines for fertilizer rates – more fertilizer is NOT better.
For more information on selection, planting, cultural practices, and environmental quality, contact your local Virginia Cooperative Extension office.

Growing Great Garlic

In the garden, garlic makes a wonderful companion crop and tends to repel most bugs. Planted among members of the cabbage family, it helps repel imported cabbageworm. Many gardeners have also found using sprays made from garlic to be very effective in helping to control plant diseases such as powdery mildew, bean anthracnose, and brown rot in almonds, apricots and peaches.

Garden Preparation
Garlic prefers well-drained, moderately-fertile soil in a sunny spot of the garden. Raised beds are ideal so that water drains quickly and the soil warms earlier in the springtime. If the soil is too fertile, you will end up with lush leaf growth and smaller bulbs.

Before planting, loosen the soil with a rake or hoe. You may want to amend the soil with a fertilizer that is high in phosphorus (the middle number) like bone meal or rock phosphate.

Planting
Just before planting, break apart each bulb of garlic into its individual cloves, trying to keep as much skin on the cloves as possible. Next, simply poke your finger into the soil until about your third knuckle (2 inches), drop the clove in pointy side up, cover the hole, and pat firmly. Space the next garlic 5 inches further down the row. Each row of garlic should be about 15-18 inches apart. After planting, water the buried cloves well.

To form cloves, garlic must be exposed to temperatures below 41 F (5 C). Thus, if planted too late in the spring, garlic will tend to form large onion-like bulbs instead of individual cloves. In the North, garlic is normally planted in October so that it can establish roots before winter and really take of in the spring. Southern gardeners can only plant garlic if they know the temperature will dip low enough. Often, they can wait until November or December to plant.

Growing & Harvesting
In springtime, the green tips will start to emerge and the garlic should be side-dressed with fertilizer again by placing the fertilizer 2 inches away from the row and lightly scratching it into the soil. During the growing season, keep garlic keep a mulch of grass clippings or similar material around the garlic to help conserve water and suppress weeds.

When the tops turn yellow in early summer, stop watering. Allow the bulbs to cure in the soil for 2 weeks and then harvest the garlic by pulling the whole plant out of the soil and tying the leaves together. Allow the bulbs to dry on a rack in a warm, dry spot.

Garlic types
Silverskin – This type of garlic is the one most often seen in grocery stores. As the name implies, the skins are silvery-white and the taste is mild & garlicky. Silverskin garlic, often referred to as soft-neck garlic, stores incredibly well and is the type used for making garlic braids.

Rocambole – Also known as serpent garlic, rocambole is classified as a hard-neck. During the growing season, this type of garlic will form flower heads which need to be cut off so they do not drain the resources of the bulb. Most rocambole-types have a very pungent, almost hot flavour and are often identified by the purplish tinge to their skin. Although this is a much more gourmet garlic, it does not store well, usually just a couple of months.

Elephant – The cloves of this garlic can weigh an ounce and will usually give up to 3 tablespoons of chopped garlic. Elephant garlic is actually a member of the leek family and thus, has a much milder taste. If your growing conditions are cool & damp, this is the garlic to choose. The bulbs of elephant garlic should be spaced farther apart, usually 10 inches, to give the plants enough room to grow.

Sources of bulbs
The best source of bulbs would be local growers who sell seed garlic at local markets. These varieties are well adapted to your growing conditions.

A second best, or to get more variety, try mail-order catalogues such as Territorial Seeds or Garden City Seeds. The best selection I’ve seen by far, however, is Salt Spring Seeds. Dan Jason, the owner, keeps about 40 different varieties.

If it’s getting late, as a last resort, I would buy organic garlic from a health food store and plant it. Normal garlic is often sprayed with sprouting inhibitors which prevent the cloves from sprouting in the store. No good if you actually want them to sprout for you in the garden.

A Great Read
Growing Great Garlic: The Definitive Guide for Organic Gardeners and Small Farmers by Ron L. England – an in-depth look at the history of garlic evolution and a how-to guide on planting, growing, and harvesting garlic.

Arzeena Hamir is an agronomist and President of Terra Viva Organics. When she’s not planting peas or picking zucchini, she answers questions about organic gardening at: advice@tvorganics.com. You can also read her gardening articles on Vegetable Gardening at www.Suite101.com

A Tisket a Tasket

There’s something pretty wonderful about having a variety of daisies in your garden. They are user friendly, cheerful and easy to grow. They look charming plunked in a vase – my apologies to real flower arrangers.

As children, all of us have delighted in picking a bouquet of daisies growing along the roadside or in an open field as a special present for our mothers. As adults, these flowers evoke great memories and bring a smile to our faces.

Today, the variety of great daisies to choose from is outstanding. One of my particular favorites is the Shasta Daisy (Leucanthemum xsuperbum). In 1890, Luther Burbank, a great North American hybridizer, brought us this popular plant. It reminded him of the pure snow on Mt. Shasta. Shastas are wonderful white daisies with yellow centers. They grow in USDA Hardiness Zones 4 to 8 (AHS Heat Zones 12 to 1) in full sun. All they require is good drainage and average garden soil. These daisies are reminiscent of childhood, when you plucked a daisy and said “he loves me, he loves me not.” All these lovely plants require is deadheading to keep them blooming. They start in June, the month of graduations and weddings, and are the perfect plants for these events. ‘Snowcap,’ is 14inches tall and produces lovely compact plants with many intensely white blooms. When in flower, it is hard to see the foliage. Plants hold up in all kinds of weather. ‘Summer Snowball’ is a stately tall cultivar (30 inches) with double white daisy blooms. It bears large flowers that really make a wonderful statement in the garden.

Erigeron speciosus is called Daisy Fleabane. Sometimes a great plant has an awful common name, which puts people off and they don’t buy it. Supposedly this native North American plant originally was used as a flea repellent. It is hardy (USDA Hardiness Zones 5 to 8; AHS Heat Zones 8 to 4), flowers easily in full sun, blooms for quite a few weeks and will grow in just about any soil. If deadheaded, they will continue to flower. ‘Prosperity’ is a wonderful lavender-blue hybrid with large double daisy flowers and a yellow center. It is 14- to 18-inches tall and can also be used as a cut flower. So don’t let the unattractive common name dissuade you from buying this diminutive charmer.

Aster xfrikartii (USDA Hardiness Zones 5 to 9; AHS Heat Zones 9 to 1) is known as Frikart’s Aster. This 20-inch plant is for full sun and well-drained garden soil. It is a wonderful disease- and insectfree plant that flowers in early summer for more than eight weeks. The cultivar ‘Flora’s Delight’ is a charming plant. It produces scads of lilacblue flowers that are very large in comparison to the diminutive size of the plant. Many of the other cultivars develop urban sprawl, but ‘Flora’s Delight’ stands nice and straight through the whole season. This particular Aster merits a place in your garden just for its long season of bloom.

Later on, three great sunny, golden daisies bring magic to the garden. Rudbeckia speciosa Viette’s Little Suzy’ is a delightful plant for the front of the border (USDA Hardiness Zones 4 to 8; AHS Heat Zones 9 to 2). This dwarf Black-Eyed Susan, 12- to 14-inches tall, is small but mighty. The single daisy flowers are golden-yellow with dark black centers that combine really well with Scabiosa columbaria ‘Butterfly Blue,’ the perennial plant of the year.

For those who are thinking tall, try Heliopsis helianthoides, the False Sunflower. This plant is hardy in USDA Hardiness Zones 3 to 9 (AHS Heat Zones 9 to 1). All you need is full sun and well-drained soil. Heliopsis begins to flower in midsummer and, with deadheading, continues to enchant you until the fall. Each flower of the cultivar ‘Bressingham Doubloon’ is extremely large and showy on stems that are (more)

2 ad daisies 48- to 60-inches tall. The 2- to 3-inch double, golden-yellow flowers with undertones of orange make it irresistible. For almost 10 to 12 weeks, it energizes your perennial border. For something slightly different, check out ‘Loraine Sunshine,’ a really unique perennial. Beautiful, big and bold, orange-gold daisies are nestled among leaves that are white with dark green veins (30-inches tall). This is truly an eye-catching plant. No garden is complete without a showstopper, and this daisy with variegated foliage is a winner.

As summer begins to wane, Helenium autumnale, Helen’s Flower, comes into its own. Flowering starts in mid- to late summer in USDA Hardiness Zones 3 to 8 (AHS Heat Zones 8 to 1). Not to be outdone by the yellows, golds and orange-golds of summer, ‘Coppelia’ bears coppery-orange flowers on sturdy 3-feet stems that don’t require staking. The small daisies simply smother the top of the plant. Its dark centers and extraordinary color capture the flair of the late-season summer garden. This is a perfect plant for the back of the border and particularly handsome when back lit, catching the sun’s rays. It is a great plant for using with early flowering fall grasses. The two companion plants are a joy in the garden.

I cannot imagine my garden or any perennial garden without these wonderful, carefree daisies. In jolly old England, the name daisy really meant the “day’s eye,” later simply corrupted to daisy. To tell the truth, I feel they are a group of plants that novice and advanced gardeners can enjoy not only for a day, but for the entire gardening season.

Ms. Cohen is Adjunct Professor at Temple University Dept of Landscape Architecture & Horticulture, Ambler Campus, 20 years; Mid-Atlantic representative o’ the perennial Plant Association; and her articles have been featured in leading consumer and gardening publications.