The Earth

Every year at this time I turn to the upcoming season with much anticipation.With the seed catalogs arriving, I spend time finding new varieties and old favorites that I want to grow.My thoughts also turn to the needs of the garden and preparations for the new season.This gives me the opportunity to review some of the basic elements that are needed in gardening.For those of you who are old hands at gardening as well as those who are new gardeners, I would like to briefly share with you a few important items that are essential for a successful garden.

Location of the Garden Site:
Choose a spot that has a sunny location.Sunshine is important because all plants require 6 hours of sunshine per day.The exception is blueberries which only require 5 hours.
Roots compete for moisture and nutrients, so avoid large trees and hedges close by the growing area.Crops growing in shady areas or shadows do poorly.
Also avoid open areas where strong winds blow.Winds can quickly destroy the fragile plant leaves and affect the future growth of plants.
Stay away from low spots where drainage is poor.Plants die for lack of oxygen when the soil is too wet.
To save steps, locate the garden close to the house, compost pile, tools, and water.
If possible, the garden should have a gentle slope to the south.This helps the soil warm up faster in the spring and with frost damage.
Soil
Have a soil test taken to know what you need to add to the soil.In urban areas or near highways, test the soil for lead contamination from car exhaust and industrial pollution.
Decide what fertilizers you will be using: compost, animal manures, ready made fertilizers, etc.Is the compost bin set up and ready to be used?
Planning the Garden: There’s no way to match the value of organizing and planning beforehand.
Orient your garden so that the beds or rows are arranged to run on a north/ south axis.This allows the sun to fall on plants equally as it moves from the east to west.
Place short plants south of tall varieties, thus avoiding the shadows from the taller plants.
Know the last and first frost dates in your area.Here on our farm, in western Maryland, our last frost day is April 20th and the first frost day is October 20th.This gives 180 days for our growing season.
Decide the type of rows or beds used and how they will be planted
Wide rows
Raised beds
Succession planting ( every 2 or 4 weeks )
Inter- cropping ( 2 crops next to each other, such as radishes mixed with carrots )
Size of paths
Perennials and where they are planted.
Keep a record of plantings: if transplanted or direct seeded, when and where planted, variety and quantity, fertilization and record of spraying.
Figure how much you’ll consume from the garden, both fresh and for storage.Plan the amount you need or want and the plants that have the most nutritional value.
Check when the crops will be in season:
long season crops occupy space throughout the whole season- tomatoes, pole beans,
Short season crops mature quickly – spinach, lettuce, peas – and can be follow-up with another crop – beans, squash
Seed Selection
Check for early varieties with short maturity time.If you do successive planting, know how long it will take for a variety to mature.
Some crops need special treatment:
Sugar sweet varieties of corn need isolation from other corn varieties
Soak peas or beans for 24 hours before planting.This helps them to germinate fast and not rot in the ground.
Buy resistant varieties to eliminate diseases.
Check if seeds are treated with fungicide or pesticide.If you do not want to handle seeds with Captan, Thiram or other fungicides, request untreated seeds when you place your order or buy from companies who state they do not treat seeds.
Decide what type of seeds you want – hybrid or open pollinated.Hybrid seeds are generally more vigorous and disease resistant.If you save seeds you need open pollinated ones.I use both types.Some open pollinated varieties are better and cheaper than hybrids, such as Scarlet Nantes carrots and Extra Early Snowball cauliflower.
Extending the Season
It is possible to have vegetables throughout most of the year, but advanced planning is needed.Early, late, and wintering over crops use floating row covers, caps, tunnels, wall-o-water, cold frames, and greenhouses to grow outside the regular season.
Now that all your planning is on paper, fill in your seed order and send it so you are sure to receive it before March.

The Year of the Zinnia

For decades, zinnias have been the flowering annual of choice for spreading glorious colors throughout the garden as well as for cutting to bring indoors. But it wasn’t always so. When the Spanish first saw zinnia species in Mexico, they thought the flower was so unattractive they named it mal de ojos, or “sickness of the eye!” What changes have been brought about over the years since–in flower colors and shapes, plant sizes, and disease resistance.

The Zinnia Family Tree
There are more than a dozen species of zinnias, members of the Compositae, or daisy family, but only three species are regularly grown in home gardens. All three are annuals and bloom from early summer through the first frosts in autumn—longer in areas that are frost-free. Zinnia elegans, known as common zinnia, is very familiar to gardeners; varieties -tall, medium and dwarf–have been part of gardens for decades. Flowers are available in just about every color except blue. Z. angustifolia (also known as Z. linearis) may be less common in gardens, but is gaining in popularity. The plants have narrower foliage and smaller single flowers. The species has golden-orange flowers, but the variety, ‘Crystal White’ (All-America Selections winner in 1997) offers pure white blooms with yellow centers. ‘Crystal White’ is also more compact than the species, which can spread to 2 feet. Z. angustifolia may overwinter in Zones 9-11. Probably the least known of zinnias is Z. haageana, or the Mexican zinnia. It is disease-resistant, grows to 15 inches, and has small, bicolored flowers; it’s an excellent cut flower because of its long stems.

A Bit of History–Then
Even after seeds of zinnias were sent back to Europe in the 18th century, the plants were not much to look at. Named for Dr. Johann Gottfried Zinn, who wrote the first description of the flower, the genus Zinnia had to wait for the late 19th century to become more successful as a garden annual. Breeding by selection occurred in Germany, Holland, and Italy: ‘Pumila Mixed’ (precursors of the “cut-and-come-again” zinnias) and two selections from that strain, ‘Mammoth’ and ‘Striata’, were brought to this country and enjoyed great success with gardeners. But the start of the zinnia’s real popularity began around 1920 when Bodger Seeds Ltd. introduced the dahlia-flowered ‘Giant Dahlia’. John Bodger discovered it as a natural mutation in a field of ‘Mammoth’ and within the next few years selected the large, flat-flowered ‘California Giant’ from the strain. It was available in separate colors and was considered to be a new trend in plant habit and flower form. It won a gold medal from the Royal Horticultural Society of England. The first tetraploid zinnia, called ‘State Fair’, came from Ferry Morse Seed Company in the 1950’s. (Tetraploids have four, rather than the usual two, sets of chromosomes; they are plants with larger flowers on stronger stems, vigorous growth, and increased disease resistance.) Dwarf selections of Zinnia haageana were introduced: ‘Persian Carpet’ (All-America Selections award, 1952) and ‘Old Mexico’ (AAS, 1962). F1 hybrids waited in the wings–or in the field, so to speak–because of the difficulty of emasculating (removing the male parts) a zinnia without destroying the flower itself. A chance find by breeder John Mondry, working at the time for W. Atlee Burpee, changed all that. He found a plant in the field with flowers that had no petals but were composed entirely of female reproductive parts. They could form seeds only after being cross-pollinated. That discovery led the way to the dwarf F1 Hybrid ‘Peter Pan’ series introduced from 1971 to1980. Yoshiro Arimitsu and Charles Weddle bred seven separate colors that were recognized as AAS Winners, now sold by Goldsmith Seeds, a wholesale seed company. Bodger Seed Ltd introduced the F1 Hybrid ‘Ruffles’ series (‘Scarlet’, AAS 1974; ‘Cherry’ and ‘Yellow’, AAS, 1978), developed by Mondry (who had resigned from Burpee) as cutting flower plants.

And Now–Breakthrough Zinnias
Compact zinnias are “in”–perhaps in response to home gardeners’ smaller plots and the popularity of container gardening. In 1997, ‘Crystal White’, Z. angustifolia bred by Takii & Co, Ltd won an award from AAS; it’s more compact than the species and offers a new color. In 1999 the ‘Profusion’ zinnias, ‘Cherry’ and ‘Orange’, from Sakata Seed Corporation won Gold Medals from AAS–the first in 10 years. They represent a breakthrough in breeding for zinnias. They are interspecific crosses; that is, the result of crossing two species, Z. angustifolia and Z. elegans. They represent the best of both: heat and humidity tolerance, disease resistance, easy maintenance (no deadheading of spent blooms required), pretty 2- to 3-inch single flowers, and compact growth (12 to 18 inches tall). They will be the benchmark for future zinnias, and they open up incredible possibilities for this garden favorite.

Zinnias–in All Their Glory
One of the reasons for the popularity of the zinnia is the diversity of its forms. Like dahlias and chrysanthemums, zinnias have a variety of flower forms and may be single, semidouble, or double. Single-flowered zinnias have just one row of petals and the center of the flower is exposed: Z. angustifolia ‘Crystal White’ is a delightful example. Double-flowered zinnias, with so many rows of petals that the center is hidden, have several shapes. There’s beehive, small blooms with rows of flat petals, such as ‘Small World Cherry’ (AAS, 1982), which really do look like little beehives. Button-type flowers are similar to beehive except the flower is flatter. The edges of each petal on cactus-shaped flowers roll under and the petal twists and bends. The petals on dahlia-flowered zinnias are large and flat and usually semi-double, which means that the flowers have many rows of petals but the center can be seen; they are great to use as cut flowers.

Zinnias also have an amazing number of colors; in fact, flowers come in almost every shade except blue. Most are solid, but some, in particular Z. haageana, are bicolored with a contrasting color at the tip of each petal. You’ll find yellow, orange, cherry, pink, purple, scarlet, and white, as well as one unique chartreuse variety called ‘Envy’.

Heights are an important consideration when planning a garden, and zinnias have growth habits to suit every need. The tall, 3- to 4-foot varieties are best for the middle or rear of a border or in a cutting garden. Dwarf plants grow 8 to 14 inches tall and do well in pots as well as at the front of a garden. Z. angustifolia plants reach only 8 to 15 inches in height with an equal spread; they are excellent in the ground, in pots or hanging containers and as summer-flowering ground covers.

Growing Zinnias From Seed
Zinnias are easy to start from seeds, indoors or outdoors. The seeds of most of them are a good size, too, so they’re a perfect choice for a child to sow in the garden as well. For earlier flowers, and in colder zones, you may want to give the plants a head start by sowing the seeds indoors.

Starting seeds indoors. Zinnias are fast growers, so plan to sow the seeds indoors about 4 to 6 weeks before the average last frost date in your area. In frost-free areas, count back from the date when you’ll be planting tomatoes, impatiens, and other warm-weather annuals in the garden.

Fill a shallow container (flat) or individual peat pots with a commercial seed-starting mix. Moisten the mix and let it drain
Sow the seeds in rows, so the seedlings will be easy to separate when it comes time to transplant them. If you’re using peat pots, sow three to four seeds in each pot. Cover the seeds lightly with a layer of mix and spritz the mix with enough water to moisten it slightly.
Enclose the flat in a sheet of clear plastic wrap or in a plastic bag closed with a twist tie to keep the mix from drying out while the seeds are germinating.
Set the flat in a warm, bright location or under grow-lights. Keep the growing medium at about 75º – 80º F (24º – 26 ºC)
Seedlings should emerge in 6 to 10 days. Remove the plastic cover and keep the mix evenly moist—not soggy—by watering the flat from the bottom to prevent water getting on the foliage.
When the seedlings have at least two sets of true leaves, transplant them into individual 2¼-inch or larger pots. Provide as much sunlight as possible so the young plants don’t get leggy from stretching for sun.
Plant zinnias outdoors when the weather and soil have warmed up, about the time you plant impatiens or peppers. Sowing seeds directly in the garden. Along with some other annuals such as marigolds, zinnias do very well if you sow them outdoors right where you want them to grow. Wait to sow until all danger of frost has passed and the air and soil are warm.
Prepare the soil (see below). It’s easiest to sow the seeds in rows, but you can sow them in groups if you want. Sow smaller seeds (of Z. angustifolia, for instance) about ¼ inch deep and larger seeds ½ inch deep. Place seeds a little more closely spaced than you’ll want the plants to actually be as they grow; if you’re sowing in groups, drop two or three seeds in each shallow hole.
Cover the seeds with soil and water well. Keep the soil moist until the seeds germinate.
When the seedlings have two pairs of leaves, thin them to the correct spacing. If you carefully pull out the unwanted seedlings, you can transplant them to other parts of the garden. Otherwise, simply snip off the seedlings at ground level.

Buying Potted Plants
If you don’t want to grow your plants from seeds, you’ll find many zinnias at your local garden center or nursery. The plants may be labeled with names or with colors only. Growers and garden centers also often sell zinnias in six-packs rather than in individual pots. Those plants will be smaller and may or may not be in bloom, but they should be in bud. It’s actually better to buy plants in packs “green,” those that aren’t in bloom. When you buy plants, look for healthy, green leaves with no discoloration above or underneath. Select plants with fairly compact growth and good branching. If you can’t plant the zinnias the day you bring them home, water them well and set them under a tree or patio cover where they’ll be protected from the drying effect of direct sun.

Planting Zinnias
Selecting a site. Zinnias grow best in full sun, which means six or more hours of direct sun daily. In desert locales and Zones 9 to 11, choose a site that gets some shade at midday and in the late afternoon. They prefer a soil that drains well—whether they’re planted in the ground or in containers—but other than that requirement, they will grow in just about any soil, whether it’s clayey, sandy, or the ideal loam. Preparing the soil. When you have selected a site, amend the soil by digging in a 2-inch (5 cm) layer of compost or peat moss before planting to ensure good drainage and fertility.

Transplanting into the garden. The best time to transplant any plant is on a cloudy day or in late afternoon so that the plants have a chance to get settled in before they have to contend with the drying effects of the sun. Set zinnias in the ground at the same depth they were growing in the pots. If you’re transplanting from flats or six-packs, try to keep as much soil around the roots as possible so they don’t dry out. If you started the plants from seeds in peat pots, set the pots below the soil line because the pots have a tendency to dry out quickly when exposed to the air. Don’t crowd zinnias because air circulation is most important to keep them disease-free. Space taller zinnias (Z. elegans) 12-18 inches apart; dwarf zinnias, 6-8 inches apart; and Z. angustifolia, 6-10 inches apart. Space the new ‘Profusion’ zinnias 12-18 inches apart. If you’re growing zinnias for cutting, stake or cage the plants when you set them in the ground. Unsupported, the stems of taller zinnias won’t grow straight or may flop over. Water the plants immediately after planting.

Caring for Zinnias Through the Season
One of the nicest aspects of zinnias is that part of their maintenance requirements, if you can call it that, is to cut the blooms frequently to keep the plants compact and bushy and producing more flowers. Otherwise, planted in the right site in good soil, they are fairly care-free. There are a few regular garden chores.

Water regularly, if it doesn’t rain. Even though zinnias love hot weather and came originally from arid regions, they do need moisture. Remember to check the soil in containers daily during hot summer weather and water if it’s dry to a depth of 2 inches or more. In really hot, dry weather, you may need to water twice a day. When you water, try not to get moisture on the foliage. Although newer hybrids are mildew resistant, they are not totally free of the disease.
Zinnias aren’t heavy feeders, but fertilize plantings in the garden at least twice during the growing season. Use a balanced granular or water-soluble fertilizer—for instance, one with 20-20-20 on the label. Or, use a slow-release fertilizer when you plant; follow label directions for amounts. Zinnias will bloom into fall, so you may want to give them a boost of fertilizer in late summer.
Mix a timed-release fertilizer into the soilless mix when you plant zinnias in containers or feed them once a month with water soluable fertilizer diluted to the strength recommended on the label for containers.

Tops as Cut Flowers
There are few other garden flowers that are as wonderful as zinnias for cutting to use in arrangements–fresh or dried. With good reason, zinnias have been referred to for years as “cut and come again” flowers: Cut one flower stem above a pair of leaves and, within days, two new stems with flower buds will have taken its place. All Zinnia elegans make good cut flowers. Use the taller kinds in large arrangements; the shorter, dwarf ones in miniature designs. Properly handled, zinnias will last at least a week in a vase before they begin to look “tired.” Zinnia angustifolia is less frequently seen in designs, but the flowers are fairly long-lasting and often add airiness to arrangements.

To gather flowers for fresh arrangements, cut them early in the morning before the sun has had a chance to dry or wilt them. Select blooms that haven’t fully opened–they will continue to open indoors. Buds that have started to open are also good, but tightly closed buds won’t open once they’re cut. Bring a bucket of water into the garden with you and place the stems in it as you cut so the stems don’t become clogged by air bubbles. Once indoors, recut the stems under water, removing any leaves that would be under water, and then let the flowers “rest” for a few hours before arranging them.

To gather zinnias for use in dried arrangements, cut Z. elegans after the morning dew has evaporated. Dry the flowers in a dessicant, such as silica gel (available at garden centers and craft stores). The flowers will dry in about a week. Use large flowers in any arrangement, dwarf hybrids in miniature designs or, with four or five of the stems wired together into a cluster, in larger arrangements.

Zinnias in Containers
Whatever kind of container you choose–windowbox, wooden half-barrel, rectangular or round pot, or hanging basket–you’ll be really pleased with the effect that zinnias create. Because they are available in so many colors and sizes, they lend themselves to striking displays, whether alone or in combination with other annuals. Low-growing zinnias are best for containers; Z. angustifolia and the smaller Z. elegans are excellent in hanging planters.

Planting in containers. Select a container that has drainage holes in the bottom or sides. Fill the container with a lightweight, soilless mix, not soil from the garden because it may not have good drainage and may carry diseases or weed seeds. Garden soil is also heavier–a consideration if you want to move the pot.

Arrange plants, in their nursery pots, on top of the soil until you have a pleasing design. Aim for a combination of taller plants in the center, medium and bushy plants around the middle, and a selection of trailing plants along the edge. Because zinnias like good air circulation, don’t set plants closer together than you would in the ground. When you’re satisfied with the placement, unpot the plants and set them in the mix at the same level they were growing originally.

Water the container well after planting and keep the soil evenly moist through the season. Plants, especially zinnias, in containers perform best if you fertilize them at least monthly with a water-soluble fertilizer, or save yourself the task and incorporate a controlled-release fertilizer in the mix before planting.

Pests and Diseases
Zinnias are basically pest free. For years, though, they have been known to be affected by two fungal diseases: powdery mildew and alternaria blight. Alternaria blight causes reddish brown spots on both foliage and flowers; it is a problem in the south more than any other area. Until recently, powdery mildew (a fungal disease) caused many zinnias to look really awful by late summer or early fall, covering the leaves with a light gray mold. To camouflage the affected foliage of older varieties of zinnias, plant them with shorter annuals in front.

The best offense against the fungus was and is prevention: Don’t get the leaves wet and do space the plants so they have good air circulation. Z. angustifolia and Z. haageana are more mildew resistant than most Z. elegans. Newer plants, especially the interspecific crosses of Z. elegans and Z. angustifolia, such as ‘Profusion’, are very resistant to powdery mildew.

The National Garden Bureau recognizes Eleanor Lewis as the author of this fact sheet. Four experts reviewed the text before publishing. We wish to thank them for their comments. They are Howard Bodger, Bodger Seeds Ltd.; David Seitz, W. Atlee Burpee; Glenn Goldsmith, Goldsmith Seeds and Dennis Kromer, Wild West Seed Inc. The photography was taken by Liz Ball, Garden Portraits or Tom Eltzroth. The logo drawing was created by Nola Nielsen. The fact sheet was designed by Johanna McCormick.

The ‘Year of the Zinnia’ fact sheet is provided as a service from the National Garden Bureau. The use of this fact sheet is unrestricted. Please credit the National Garden Bureau as the source. We offer slides or black and white prints to journalists for illustrations. Please use the enclosed post card to inform us of your photo requests.

Slide Set for libraries or lectures. The ‘Year of the Zinnia and Sweet Corn’ are available as a 14 piece slide set with scripts for lectures. Please send a check, bank or postal money order for $12.00. We will mail you the slide set and scripts upon receipt of your payment.

The National Garden Bureau is a non profit organization and recognizes the seed company members that generously donate funds for this educational program. In 2001, it will be the ‘Year of the Centaurea and Basil’.

Provided by the National Gardening Bureau.

Good Housekeeping Baking

More than 600 Recipes for Homemade Treats

Baking: The word itself conjures up images of warmth and festivity. What better way to celebrate a special occasion than with a home-baked cake or pie? But you don’t have to wait for an occasion: You can make even the most humdrum day sparkle with a fresh-from-the-oven batch of brownies, savory herb focaccia, or the surprise of after-school coffee cake or muffins.

Whether you grew up with homemade treats like these or relied on buying favorites from a bakery, you’ll find that these triple-tested recipes–more than 600 in all–will bring back delicious memories–and help you create new ones for family and friends.

In Good Housekeeping Baking you’ll find old-time delights as well as specials that may be new to you–from crowd-pleasing bar cookies and neighborly quick breads to silky custard pies and big-city cheesecakes–along with some appealing specialties you might not have thought of baking, such as crackers and soufflés. Try some of our internationally inspired recipes, too, including sturdy Italian and Greek breads, elegant French fruit tarts, spicy German cookies, and buttery Danish pastries.

You’ll learn how to decorate party cakes and form fancy crusts for pies. And it’s not all sweets: We give you recipes for pizzas, focaccias, quiches, and other savory pastries as well. How-to photos and helpful hints ensure that you’ll get it right the first time and every time.

There’s no time like the present! Choose from any of our hundreds of irresistible treats: Good Housekeeping Baking is filled with can’t-miss recipes that will create–or re-create–many happy memories.

Contents

Foreword 7
Baking Basics 13
Cookies 24
Quick Breads & Crackers 76
Yeast Breads 114
Soufflés, Custards & Baked Desserts 168
Pies & Tarts 202
Specialty Pastry 258
Cakes 290
Frostings, Fillings & Flourishes 350
Index 367

Excerpt
The following is an excerpt from the book: Good Housekeeping Baking: More than 600 Recipes for Homemade Treats by Good Housekeeping (Editor)
Published by Hearst Books; 0688166164 ; $30.00US; Oct. 99
Copyright © 1999 Hearst Communications

Almond Leaves
Prep 65 minutes plus cooling
Bake 7 to 9 minutes per batch

A spatula-like stencil with a leaf-shaped cut-out is used to make these autumnal almond cookies.

1/3 CUP ALMOND PASTE (3 1/2 OUNCES), CRUMBLED
1/4 CUP SUGAR
3 TABLESPOONS BUTTER OR MARGARINE, SOFTENED
1/4 TEASPOON ALMOND EXTRACT
1 LARGE EGG, SLIGHTLY BEATEN
1/3 CUP PLUS 2 TABLESPOONS ALL-PURPOSE FLOUR

1 In small bowl, with mixer at medium speed, beat almond paste until softened. Add sugar and beat until smooth (a few small lumps will remain). Add butter and beat until well blended. Reduce speed to low and beat in egg and almond extract until incorporated. Stir in flour until just combined, scraping bowl occasionally with rubber spatula.

2 Preheat oven to 350° F. Generously butter 2 large cookie sheets. Spread a teaspoonful of batter through leaf spatula and smooth 1/8 inch thick with small wet metal spatula. Repeat with remaining batter, leaving 2 inches in between leaves. Bake 7 to 9 minutes, rotating sheets between upper and lower racks halfway through baking, until edges are golden. With wide spatula, transfer cookies to wire rack to cool completely.

3 Repeat with remaining cookie batter. Makes about 3 dozen cookies.

EACH COOKIE: ABOUT 35 CALORIES, 1 G PROTEIN,
4 G CARBOHYDRATE, 2 G TOTAL FAT (1 G SATURATED),
0 G FIBER, 9 MG CHOLESTEROL, 15 MG SODIUM.

CHOCOLATE-ALMOND LEAVES Prepare as above; cool. Melt 3 1/2 squares (3 1/2 ounces) semisweet chocolate. Spread chocolate in thin layer over cooled cookies, marking veins of leaves with edge of thin metal spatula. Let stand on wire racks until chocolate has set.

EACH COOKIE: ABOUT 50 CALORIES, 1 G PROTEIN,
6 G CARBOHYDRATE, 3 G TOTAL FAT (1 G SATURATED),
0 G FIBER, 9 MG CHOLESTEROL, 15 MG SODIUM.

Pumpkin Muffins
PREP 15 MINUTES / BAKE 25 TO 30 MINUTES

Pumpkin muffins are perfect Halloween party fare and are always welcome on the autumn breakfast table or the Thanksgiving bread basket. For a change, add 1 cup raisins or 1 cup chopped walnuts or pecans.

3 1/2 CUPS ALL-PURPOSE FLOUR
1 TABLESPOON BAKING POWDER
2 TEASPOONS PUMPKIN-PIE SPICE*
1 TEASPOON BAKING SODA
1 TEASPOON SALT
3 LARGE EGGS
1 CAN (16 OUNCES) SOLID PACK PUMPKIN (NOT PUMPKIN PIE MIX)
3/4 CUP BUTTER OR MARGARINE (1 1/2 STICKS), MELTED
2/3 CUP PLUS 2 TABLESPOONS PACKED BROWN SUGAR
2/3 CUP HONEY
2/3 CUP MILK
1 TEASPOON GROUND CINNAMON

1 Preheat oven to 400° F. Grease twenty-four 2 1/2″ by 1 1/4″ muffin-pan cups or line with paper baking liners. In large bowl stir together flour, baking powder, pumpkin-pie spice, baking soda, and salt.

2 In medium bowl, with wire whisk or fork, mix eggs, pumpkin melted butter, 2/3 cup brown sugar, honey, and milk. Stir egg mixture into flour mixture just until flour is moistened (batter will be lumpy).

3 Spoon batter into prepared muffin-pan cups. In small cup, combine remaining 2 tablespoons brown sugar and cinnamon; sprinkle over muffins. Bake 25 to 30 minutes, rotating pans between upper and lower racks halfway through baking, or until tops of muffins are browned and toothpick inserted in center of muffin comes out clean. Immediately remove muffins from pan; serve warm. Or cool on wire rack to serve later. Makes 2 dozen muffins.

*Or use 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon, 3/4 teaspoon ground ginger, 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg, and 1/8 teaspoon ground cloves.

EACH MUFFIN: ABOUT 205 CALORIES, 3 G PROTEIN, 31 G CARBOHYDRATE, 8 G TOTAL FAT (4 G SATURATED), 1 G FIBER, 43 MG CHOLESTEROL, 285 MG SODIUM.

Pumpkin Crème Caramel
PREP 30 MINUTES PLUS OVERNIGHT TO CHILL
BAKE 55 MINUTES

You might consider a change in your Thanksgiving menu after tasting this luscious caramel-drenched pumpkin custard. Be sure to used canned solid pack pumpkin, not pumpkin-pie mix for this recipe.

6 STRIPS (3″ BY 1″ EACH) ORANGE PEEL
1 1/4 CUPS SUGAR
1/4 CUP WATER
1 CAN (12 OUNCES) EVAPORATED MILK
1 CUP HEAVY OR WHIPPING CREAM
1 CUP SOLID PACK PUMPKIN (NOT PUMPKIN-PIE MIX)
6 LARGE EGGS
1/4 CUP ORANGE-FLAVORED LIQUEUR
1 TEASPOON VANILLA EXTRACT
1 TEASPOON GROUND CINNAMON
PINCH GROUND NUTMEG
PINCH SALT

1 In 1-quart saucepan, heat orange peel, 3/4 cup sugar, and water to boiling over high heat; cover and cook 10 minutes. With fork, remove orange peel and discard. Continue cooking sugar mixture about 3 minutes longer, until amber in color. Pour caramel into 9″ by 5″ loaf pan, swirling to coat bottom. (Hold pan with pot holders to protect hands from heat of caramel.) Set pan aside.

2 In heavy 2-quart saucepan, heat evaporated milk, cream, and remaining 1/2 cup sugar just to boiling over medium-high heat.

3 Meanwhile, preheat oven to 350° F. In large bowl with wire whisk, mix pumpkin eggs, liqueur, vanilla, cinnamon nutmeg, and salt until combined.

4 Gradually whisk hot milk mixture into pumpkin mixture until combined. Pour pumpkin mixture through medium-mesh sieve into prepared loaf pan. Place loaf pan in 13″ by 9″ roasting pan; place in oven. Carefully pour boiling water into roasting pan to come three-quarters up side of loaf pan. Bake 55 minutes, or until knife inserted 1 inch from edge of custard comes out clean (center will jiggle slightly). Remove loaf pan from roasting pan to cool on wire rack 1 hour. Cover and refrigerate crème caramel overnight.

5 To unmold, run small metal spatula around sides of loaf pan; invert crème caramel onto serving plate, allowing caramel syrup to drip from pan onto loaf (some caramel may remain in loaf pan). Makes 12 servings.

EACH SERVING: ABOUT 245 CALORIES, 6 G PROTEIN, 28 G CARBOHYDRATE, 12 G TOTAL FAT (7 G SATURATED), 0.5 G FIBER, 143 MG CHOLESTEROL, 85 MG SODIUM.

French Apple Tart
PREP 1 HOUR 30 MINUTES
BAKE 1 HOUR 12 TO 20 MINUTES

Thin apple slices are arranged over a filling of freshly-made applesauce and glazed with apricot preserves.

BAKED SWEET PASTRY CRUST FOR 11-INCH TART (PAGE 208)
2 LEMONS
4 LARGE GRANNY SMITH APPLES (9 POUNDS), PEELED AND CORED
4 LARGE GOLDEN DELICIOUS APPLES (2 POUNDS), PEELED AND CORED
6 TABLESPOONS BUTTER OR MARGARINE
1/2 CUP PLUS 9 TABLESPOONS SUGAR
1 1/2 TEASPOONS VANILLA EXTRACT
1/4 TEASPOON GROUND NUTMEG
1/3 CUP APRICOT PRESERVES, PRESSED THROUGH A SIEVE

1 Prepare dough as directed through chilling in 11-inch fluted tart pan. Line and weight tart shell, bake, and cool as directed.

2 From lemons, finely grate 1 1/2 teaspoons peel and squeeze 2 tablespoons juice. Reserve 2 Granny Smiths and 1 Golden Delicious apple for top. Slice remaining apples. In large skillet, melt 4 tablespoons butter over medium-high heat. Add sliced apples and cook 5 minutes. Cover, reduce heat to medium, and cook 15 minutes, or until very tender. Stir in lemon peel and juice, 1/2 cup sugar, vanilla, and nutmeg. Cook, stirring frequently, 25 to 30 minutes until puree is very thick and has reduced to 2 1/4 cups. Cool to room temperature.

3 Meanwhile, preheat oven to 375° F.

4 Thinly slice remaining apples. Spoon puree into tart shell and spread evenly. Arrange apple slices, overlapping in concentric circles, on puree. Melt remaining 2 tablespoons butter. Brush apples slices with butter and sprinkle with remaining 2 tablespoons sugar.

5 Bake 45 to 50 minutes, until apples are tender when pierced with a knife. Cool tart on wire rack 10 minutes. Remove side of pan and cool completely. When cool brush apple slices with sieved preserves. Makes 12 servings.

EACH SERVING: ABOUT 355 CALORIES, 2 G PROTEIN, 52 G CARBOHYDRATE, 16 G TOTAL FAT (10 G SATURATED), 3 G FIBER, 59 MG CHOLESTEROL, 210 MG SODIUM.

Dundee Cake
PREP 35 MINUTES PLUS OVERNIGHT TO STAND
BAKE 2 HOURS TO 2 HOURS 15 MINUTES

Somewhat more subtle than a holiday fruitcake, this popular Scottish teacake is topped with whole almonds and lightly flavored with orange.

2 CUPS ALL-PURPOSE FLOUR
1 TEASPOON BAKING POWDER
1/4 TEASPOON SALT
1/4 TEASPOON GROUND ALLSPICE
1/4 TEASPOON GROUND CINNAMON
2/3 CUP BLANCHED WHOLE ALMONDS
1 CUP SUGAR
2/3 CUP GOLDEN RAISINS
2/3 CUP DRIED CURRANTS
1/2 CUP DICED CANDIED CITRON
1/2 CUP DICED CANDIED ORANGE OR LEMON PEEL
1/2 CUP RED CANDIED CHERRIES, CHOPPED
1 CUP BUTTER OR MARGARINE (2 STICKS), SOFTENED
4 LARGE EGGS
2 TABLESPOONS ORANGE-FLAVORED LIQUEUR

1 Preheat oven to 300° F. Grease and flour 8-inch springform pan.

2 In medium bowl stir together flour, baking powder, salt, allspice, and cinnamon.

3 In food processor with knife blade attached, combine 1/3 cup almonds and 1/4 cup sugar. Process until almonds are finely ground. In medium bowl, mix ground-almond mixture, raisins, currants, citron, orange peel and cherries.

4 In large bowl, with mixer at low speed, beat remaining 3/4 cup sugar and butter until blended. Increase speed to medium-high and beat 5 minutes, or until light and creamy. Add eggs, 1 at a time, beating well after each addition. Beat in orange liqueur. Reduce speed to low; beat in flour mixture until blended, scraping bowl (batter will be thick). Stir in fruit mixture.

5 Spoon batter into prepared pan, spreading evenly. Arrange remaining 1/3 cup almonds on top of batter. Bake 2 hours to 2 hours 15 minutes, until toothpick inserted in center of cake comes out clean. Cover pan loosely with foil after 1 hour to prevent top from overbrowning. Cool in pan on wire rack 20 minutes. With small knife, loosen cake from side of pan; remove pan side. Cool completely on wire rack. When cool, remove pan bottom and wrap cake in plastic wrap and then in foil. Let stand overnight before serving. Makes 20 servings.

EACH SERVING: ABOUT 290 CALORIES, 4 G PROTEIN, 40 G CARBOHYDRATE, 13 G TOTAL FAT (6 G SATURATED), 1 G FIBER, 67 MG CHOLESTEROL, 180 MG SODIUM.

Copyright © 1999 Hearst Communications

Butterfly Blue

The Perennial Plant Association has awarded the title Perennial Plant of the Year 2000 to Scabiosa columbaria `Butterfly Blue’. A member of the Dipsacaceae family, the nearly flat gray-green basal foliage of the pincushion flower hugs the ground. Lacy lavender-blue, twoinch flowers bloom on slender 12- to 15-inch stems from late spring through early fall. Flowering begins in mid-spring with repeated flowering throughout the growing season when consistently deadheaded. In some climates `Butterfly Blue’ flowers until late December. Pincushion flower derives its common name from the stamens which stand above the petals resembling pins stuck in a pincushion. The leaves are hairy, ovate to lance-shaped, with the upper foliage smaller and finely divided creating a mounded rosette six to eight inches high and 12 to 15 inches wide.

History
Forty years ago Farplants grower, David Tristram, admired this exceptional plant in a garden in Ireland. Mr. Tristram obtained cuttings and grew the unique Scabiosa in his Irish garden for 15 years before moving to England where he grew the beloved plant in his Sussex garden until the early 1980s. Marketing cooperatively, Farplants and the English nursery, Blakedown, selected Scabiosa columbaria `Butterfly Blue’ for their first venture in promoting plants. Indeed, `Butterfly Blue’ has become an international winner.

Propagation Scabiosa columbaria `Butterfly Blue’ can be propagated by stem cuttings. Two-node tip cuttings of soft vegetative growth should be taken before flowering. Cuttings are placed under mist for approximately two weeks with 68°F bottom heat. Roots will form in about eight weeks at which time the cuttings can be transplanted to quarts or gallons. After transplanting, quarts should be ready for sale in four to six weeks, and gallons in six to eight weeks. Cuttings taken during the winter should receive a one-percent IBA or KIBA drench to enhance rooting. Botrytis may occur on stem cuttings during cloudy weather.

Cultivation
An excellent cultivar of an oldfashioned favorite, this long-blooming perennial for full sun to light shade grows best in well-drained soil amended with organic matter and a neutral to slightly alkaline pH. `Butterfly Blue’ pincushion flower requires moist soil during the growing season. Very well-drained soil is a requirement for winter survival. This lovely perennial does not appear to be fazed by summer heat and will bloom throughout the growing season when regularly deadheaded. No insect or disease problems have been reported on wellgrown, healthy plants. Bare-root plants or divisions should be planted so the emerging buds are just below the soil surface. Container-grown plants can be planted anytime during the growing season 12 to 18 inches apart. The crown of `Butterfly Blue’ should be planted at the depth it was growing in the container to prevent crown rot. It is recommended that the basal foliage not be cut back in the fall. Winter-damaged foliage should be removed in the spring.

Landscape Uses Scabiosa columbaria `Butterfly Blue’ is an excellent front-of-the-border plant to use in combination with annuals, bulbs, and perennials. The foliage remains clean and unblemished throughout the season. The delicate blue flowers add softness to the garden when massed with boldercolored plants of yellow, bright pink, or red. They also work well with cooler tones of white, silver, and blue. Despite its delicate appearance, `Butterfly Blue’ is a sturdy plant. The plants do not require staking. During the summer butterflies find the nectar-rich flowers. `Butterfly Blue’ may be combined with Coreopsis verticillata `Moonbeam’, Dianthus `Bath’s Pink’, and Pennisetum alopecuroides for a three-season, carefree garden. The cool lavenderblue flowers of `Butterfly Blue’ shine against the warm, burnished tones of fall as one of the last blue-flowering perennials. With its long-lasting blossoms, `Butterfly Blue’ is an excellent choice for smaller flower arrangements either as cut flowers or grown in decorative containers. The outstanding attributes of Scabiosa columbaria `Butterfly Blue’ are sure to place this underused perennial in the top group of favorite longblooming perennials.

Provided by the Perennial Plant Association.

Integrated Pest Management

Firewood that has been stacked outside for a long period of time is an ideal habitat for animals. Restack your wood periodically to discourage nesting. Don’t be alarmed if you discover small insects such as carpenter ants, termites, and bark beetles. None of these insects can survive the trip indoors to damage wood in your home. Termites cannot survive when taken away from their colony; wood eating beetles and carpenter ants cannot use wood unless it has a high moisture content.

When purchasing seeds or plant material, select varieties that are known for their resistance to insects and diseases. Resistance does not guarantee a plant’s immunity to pests or diseases, but the plant is usually able to survive pest attacks without any long-term damage.

Cold winter temperatures can cause color changes in the foliage of evergreens, producing showy tans to browns on arborvitae, Thuja occidentalis; bronze on Siberian cypress, Microbiata decussata; and purples on some junipers like ‘Bar Harbor’, ‘Wiltonii’, and ‘Andorra’. This is a natural, seasonal occurrence, and when spring temperatures warm up, the normal colors of evergreens will return.

Pine tip blight, caused by Sphaeropsis sapinea, is a fungal disease which affects the new growth of more than 20 species of two and three-needled pines including Austrian, mugo, ponderosa, Monterey, and Scots pines. It takes advantage of older trees that are under stress from various factors including drought, insects, mechanical injury, hail, or strong winds. Damage is usually first evident on the lower crown and can kill current-year shoots, major branches, and eventually entire trees. Conspicuous symptoms on the new growth include stunted shoots, brown needles, and small black fungal fruiting structures at the base of needles or on the scales of the second-year cones. Pine tip blight thrives in wet spring weather; winter is a good time to take some preventative measures against the spread of this fungus. Prune out all dying and dead branches and remove infected cones since the spores of this fungus overwinter on them. The dry cones can be used as kindling in your fireplace. Also, consider planting pines that are resistant to tip blight such as Japanese black pine, Pinus thunbergiana; white pine, Pinus strobus; or loblolly pine, Pinus taeda.

Give our environment a helping hand by recycling your holiday tree. By removing the boughs and cutting them into smaller branches, you can provide your perennial garden with a natural, biodegradable mulch that will in turn help prevent injury to dormant plants during the freezing and thawing of the winter months. The trunk can be used as a trellis for annual vines next spring.

When starting seeds indoors for spring plantings, you may want to follow a few simple steps to help prevent damping-off, a term used to describe a number of soil borne diseases of plants and seed borne fungi. Pythium and Phytophthora are two common causes of damping-off. Seeds, roots, and stems can rot quickly after sprouting as a result of overwatering and from cool, wet, soil conditions. The best defense against damping-off is good sanitation. Before reusing old containers, wash them in a 1% bleach solution and use a sterile, porous soil mix for planting. Good cultural practices will help as well. Make sure to use containers with drainage holes, avoid overcrowding plants and overcovering seeds, and allow the soil surface to dry between waterings

Julia and Jacques Cooking at Home

Julia and Jacques Cooking at Home is the companion volume to Julia Child and Jacques Pepin’s new PBS series of the same name. Enjoy this excerpt.

Potato Salads
Potato salad is perfect picnic fare, but it is a good side dish any time of year, dressed and garnished in various styles to suit the season. Julia’s American-style potato salad is garnished with hard-boiled eggs and crisp bacon bits, chopped pickles, onions, and celery, all given a light coating of homemade mayonnaise. Make this at least an hour ahead of time so the flavors have time to ripen, and serve cool or at room temperature. Jacques’s salad is particularly nice for winter meals — the hot potatoes are tossed with white wine and oil, sautéed onions, scallions, and garlic. Serve it warm, with slices of hot, homemade sausage arranged on top, or with other meats.

The best potatoes for salad are the firm-textured, low-starch “waxy” varieties, which hold their shape well, such as boiling potatoes, small new potatoes, or delicate fingerlings. All-purpose potatoes with waxy flesh, such as the versatile Yukon Gold, are particularly delicious. Whatever kind you use, dress the potatoes while they are still warm so that they best absorb the flavors, and gently fold in all the dressing and seasoning ingredients in one or two additions only, so the potato pieces don’t get mashed from overhandling.

Julia’s American-Style Potato Salad
Yield: About 6 cups, serving 4 to 6

2 pounds large Yukon Gold potatoes, or other waxy, boiling potatoes
2 Tbs cider vinegar
1/3 cup chicken stock or potato-cooking water
2/3 cup finely chopped onion
1/2 cup finely chopped celery
3 or 4 slices crisply cooked bacon, chopped or crumbled
2 to 3 Tbs finely chopped pickle, sweet or dill
2 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and sliced thin
3 Tbs or so finely chopped fresh chives or scallions, including a bit of their tender green
Salt and freshly ground white pepper
1 cup or so mayonnaise, homemade if possible (pages 117 and 120)
Sour cream (optional)

For garnishing Crisp whole red-leaf or other lettuce leaves Canned red pimiento, diced; sliced hard-boiled eggs; tomato quarters; parsley sprigs (optional)

Peel the potatoes and slice each one lengthwise in half, or in quarters if very large; then cut crosswise into half-round or quarter-round slices, about 1/2 inch thick.

Put the slices in a saucepan with water just to cover and 1 1/2 teaspoons of salt per quart of water. Heat to a simmer, and cook the potatoes for 5 to 6 minutes, or until just cooked through. It is essential that they be just cooked through. Bite into a slice or two to be very sure. Immediately remove from the heat and drain the potatoes into a colander, but save a cup of the cooking liquid for dressing the potatoes. Transfer the potatoes to a large bowl. Stir the cider vinegar with 1/3 cup of the potato water or chicken stock and drizzle this over the potato pieces, turning them gently to distribute it evenly. Let sit 10 minutes to absorb the liquid.

Add the prepared onion, celery, bacon, pickle, hard-boiled eggs, and chives, and season carefully to taste. Top with 2/3 cup of mayonnaise (or a mix of mayonnaise and a bit of sour cream) and, with a large rubber spatula, gently fold everything together until well blended. Taste the salad and add more salt, pepper, or mayonnaise as needed.

Cover the salad and set aside in the refrigerator for at least an hour or so before serving. If it is refrigerated longer, let it come back to room temperature before serving. Taste and adjust the seasoning again.

To serve, line a bowl or a platter with red-leaf lettuce or other greens, and mound the salad on top. Decorate at the last moment, if you wish, with any or all of the optional garnishes.

Jacques’s French Potato Salad

Yield: About 6 cups, serving 4 to 6

2 pounds fingerling potatoes or other small waxy potatoes
1/2 cup or so extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 cup 1/4-inch slices of scallion, green and white parts
1/2 cup chopped onion
3 cloves garlic, mashed and coarsely chopped (1 1/2 tsp)
1/3 cup white wine
1 1/2 Tbs Dijon-style mustard
2 to 3 Tbs chopped chives
2 Tbs or more coarsely chopped fresh green or purple basil, fresh tarragon, or parsley
1 tsp kosher salt, plus more if needed
1/2 tsp freshly cracked black pepper (coarse), plus more if needed

For serving and garnishing Large radicchio leaves, about 6, from the outside of the head
1 or 2 hard-boiled eggs, coarsely chopped
Chopped fresh parsley

Scrub the potatoes and put them, whole, in a saucepan with water to cover by 1/2 inch. Bring the water to a boil, reduce the heat, and cook the potatoes gently until they are just tender and can be pierced with a sharp knife. Drain immediately and let cool slightly. (Scrape the skin from the cooked potatoes, if you want, as soon as they can be handled. For a decorative look with fingerlings, scrape off only a band of skin, about 1/2 inch thick, all around the long sides of the potato.)

Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a small saute pan. When hot, add the scallions and the onion, toss to coat well, and cook for about a minute over medium-high heat. Add the garlic, toss to mix, and cook for just a few moments, then remove the pan from the heat.

Slice the potatoes while still warm, cutting them crosswise into 1/2-inch sections. Put the pieces in a large mixing bowl, pour the wine and 3 or 4 tablespoons of olive oil over them, and toss gently to distribute. Add the warm vegetables from the pan, mustard, chives, chopped herbs, salt, and pepper, and gently fold all together, mixing well but not crushing the potatoes. Taste the salad and add more seasonings as you like.

Serve the potatoes warm (no colder than room temperature). Arrange the large radicchio leaves, if you have them, in a close circle on the serving platter, with their curved insides up, to form a rough bowl. Spoon the potato salad inside the leaves, sprinkle chopped egg around the edges, and parsley over the top.

–From Julia and Jacques Cooking at Home, by Julia Child, et al. © September 1999 , Julia Child, et al used by permission.

My Garden (Book)

Jamaica Kincaid’s first garden in Vermont was a square plot in the middle of her front lawn, There, to the consternation of more experienced gardener friends, she planted only seeds of flowers she liked best. In My Garden (Book):, she gathers together all she loves about gardening and plants, and examines it in the same spirit: generously, passionately, and with sharp, idiosyncratic discrimination.

Kincaid’s affections are matched in intensity only by her dislikes. She loves spring and summer, but cannot bring herself to love winter, for it hides the garden. She adores rhododendron ‘Jane Grant,’ and appreciates ordinary Blue Lake string beans, but abhors the Asiatic lily and dreams of ways to trap small plant-eating animals. The sources of her inspiration–seed catalogues (the glossy ones, and, preferably, the non-glossy ones), the gardener Gertrude Jekyll, gardens like Monet’s at Giverny–are subjected to her scrutiny. She also examines the idea of the garden on Antigua, where she grew up and where one of her favorite school subjects was botany, and she considers the implications of the English idea of the garden in colonized countries. On a trip to the Chelsea Flower Show, she visits historic English gardens on English soil. My Garden (Book): is an intimate, playful, and penetrating book on gardens, the plants that fill them, and the gardeners who tend them.

Author
Jamaica Kincaid’s most recent book (as editor) is an anthology of writing on plants, My Favorite Plant (FSG, 1998). She lives in Vermont with her husband and children, and she teaches at Harvard University.

Enjoy this excerpt from
My Garden (Book)
The following is an excerpt from the book: My Garden (Book) by Jamaica Kincaid
Published by Farrar, Straus & Giroux; 0374281866; $23.00US; Nov. 99
Copyright © Jamaica Kincaid
My attachment in adult life to the garden begins in this way: shortly after I became a mother for the first time, my husband gave me a hoe, a rake, a spade, a fork, some flower seeds to mark the occasion of that thing known as Mother’s Day. It was my second Mother’s Day; for the first one he had given me a pair of earrings and I put them on a table in the kitchen and they were never seen again, by me, and no one else, not the lady who cleaned the house, not the woman who helped me take care of my child, not my husband, not my child–no one admitted to ever seeing them again. I can’t remember if the seeds and tools were wrapped up, but I remember that immediately on having them I went outside and dug up a large part of the small yard, a patch that had never been cultivated, and put all the seeds from the packets in the ground. And that was that, for nothing grew, the ground was improperly prepared, it was in the shade of a big oak tree, and a big maple tree (those two trees really did grow in the same vicinity and I did not appreciate them then; so annoying, their leaves falling down in the autumn and dirtying up the yard, I thought then).

A man named Chet lived in the house right next to me and he could only breathe properly while attached to canisters filled with oxygen; then every once in a while he would come outside and smoke a cigarette and while smoking a cigarette he would tend to these enormous tomatoes that he grew right up against the side of his house. The tomatoes were exposed fully to the sun in that position and he did not worry about poisonous toxins leeching out of the materials from which his house was built into the soil in which his tomatoes were grown. His tomatoes prospered near his house and they tasted most delicious; my plot of backyard upturned by me and which had my hands blistered and unpleasant-looking, looked as if an animal of any kind had mistakenly thought something was buried there and had sought in vain to find it; no one looking at the mess I had made would think that a treasure of any kind, long lost, had finally been unearthed there.

I moved into another house not too far away and with a larger yard. Chet died and I am still ashamed that I never saw him again after I left my old house and also I never attended his funeral even though I knew of it and when I now see his wife, Millie, she avoids me (though I am sure I avoid her too, but I would rather think that it is she who is avoiding me). I moved to a house which had been the house of someone named Mrs. McGovern and she had just died, too, but I never knew her or even heard of her and so moving into her house carried no real feeling of her for me, until one day, my first spring spent in that new house and so in that new property, this happened: the autumn before, we had paid someone a large amount of money to regrade the lawn out back and it looked perfect enough, but that following spring lots of patches of maroon-colored leaf sprouts began to emerge from the newly reconstituted lawn out back. How annoyed I was and just on the verge of calling up the lawn person to complain bitterly, when my new neighbor Beth Winter came over to see me and to talk to me about how enjoyable she found it to live with her family of a husband and three children in the very same house in which she grew up; on hearing of my complaints about the lawn person and seeing the maroon-colored leaf sprouts I had pointed out to her, she said, “But you know, Mrs. McGovern had a peony garden.” And that was how I learned what the new shoots of peonies look like and that was how I came to recognize a maple, but not that its Latin name is Acer; Latin names came later, with resistance.

That first spring in old Mrs. McGovern’s house (but she was long dead) I discovered her large old patch of daylilies (Hemerocallis fulva) growing just outside the southwest kitchen window and Rob (Woolmington) came with his own modest rototiller and made a large-ish square with it for my vegetable garden and then followed me around the outside perimeter of the house with the rototiller as I directed him to turn up the soil, making beds in strange shapes, so that the house would eventually seem to be protected by a moat made not for water but as the result of an enthusiastic beginning familiarity with horticulture.

This is how my garden began; then again, it would not be at all false to say that just at that moment I was reading a book and that book (written by the historian William Prescott) happened to be about the conquest of Mexico, or New Spain–as it was then called–and I came upon the flower called marigold and the flower called dahlia and the flower called zinnia and after that the garden was to me more than the garden as I used to think of it. After that the garden was also something else.

By the time I was firmly living in Mrs. McGovern’s house (or The Yellow House, which is what the children came to call it, for it was painted yellow), I had begun to dig up or to have dug up for me parts of the lawn in the back of the house and parts of the lawn in the front of the house into the most peculiar ungarden-like shapes. These beds–for I was attempting to make such a thing as flower beds–were odd in shape, odd in relation to the way flower beds usually look in a garden; I could see that they were odd and I could see that they did not look like the flower beds in gardens I admired, the gardens of my friends, the gardens portrayed in my books on gardening; but I couldn’t help that; I wanted a garden that looked like something I had in my mind’s eye, but exactly what that might be I did not know and even now do not know. And this must be why: the garden for me is so bound up with words about the garden, with words itself, that any set idea of the garden, any set picture, is a provocation to me.

It was not until I was living in Dr. Woodworth’s house (The Brown Shingled House with Red Shutters) some years later that I came to understand the shape of the beds. In Dr. Woodworth’s house, I had much more space, I had a lawn and then beyond the lawn I had some acres. The lawn of Dr. Woodworth’s house was bigger than the lawn at Mrs. McGovern’s house, and so my beds were bigger, their shapes more strange, more not the usual shape of beds in a proper garden, and they became so much more difficult to explain to other gardeners who had more experience with a garden than I and more of an established aesthetic of a garden than I. “What is this?” I have been asked, “What are you trying to do here?” I have been asked. Sometimes I would reply by saying, ‘I don’t really know,” or sometimes I would reply “…” with absolute silence. When it dawned on me that the garden I was making (and am still making and will always be making) resembled a picture of a map of the Caribbean and the sea that surrounds it, I did not tell this to the gardeners who had asked me to explain the thing I was doing, or to explain what I was trying to do; I only marveled at the way the garden is for me an exercise in memory, a way of remembering my own immediate past, a way of getting to a past that is my own (the Caribbean Sea) and the past as it is indirectly related to me (the conquest of Mexico and its surroundings).

Wisteria
Is there someone to whom I can write for an answer to this question: Why is my Wisteria floribunda, trained into the shape of a standard, blooming in late July, almost August, instead of May, the way wisterias in general are supposed to do? The one that is blooming out of its natural season is blue in color; I have another one similar in every way (or so I believe) except that it should show white flowers; it does not bloom at all, it only throws out long twining stems, mixing itself up with the canes of the Rosa “Alchymist” which is growing not too nearby, mixing itself up with a honeysuckle (Lornicera) and even going far away to twine itself around a red rose (Rosa “Henry Kelsy”). What to do? I like to ask myself this question, but especially when I myself do not have the answer for it. What to do? When it comes up, What to do (slugs are everywhere) and I know a ready-made solution, I feel confident and secure in the world (my world) and again when it comes up, What to do (the wisterias are blooming out of their season), I still feel confident and secure that someone somewhere has had this same perplexing condition (for most certainly I cannot be the first person to have had this experience) and he or she will explain to me the phenomenon that is in front of me: my wisteria grown as a standard (made to look like a tree) is blooming two months after its usual time. Do standards sometimes do that at first, when they are in their youth of being standards, the whole process of going from one form (vining) to another (a shrub, a small tree) being so difficult and unusual; in trying to go from one to the other, does the whole process of holding all together become so difficult that precise bloom time becomes a casualty, something like appearing at the proper time to have your hair examined by the headmistress: you show up but your hair is not the way it should be, it is not styled in a way that pleases her, it is not styled in a way that she understands. What to do with the wisteria? Should I let it go, blooming and blooming, each new bud looking authoritative but also not quite right at all, as if on a dare, a surprise even to itself, looking as if its out-of-seasonness was a modest, tentative query?

But what am I to do with this droopy, weepy sadness in the middle of summer, with its color and shape reminding me of mourning, as it does in spring remind me of mourning, but mourning the death of something that happened long ago (winter is dead in spring and not only that, there is no hint that it will ever return again). Summer does have that color of purple, the monkshoods have that color and they start blooming in late July and I have so many different kinds I am able to have ones that will bloom all the way into October; but monkshoods do not look sad, they look poisonous, which they are, and they look evil or as if they might hold something evil, the way anything bearing the shape of a hood would. I like the monkshoods but especially I like them because friends whom I love through the garden (Dan Hinkley, Annie Thorn) grow them and grow them beautifully and they are always saying how marvelous it is to have that particular kind of color in the garden (deep purple) at that particular time of the year (deep summer, late summer) and I see their point, but deep down I want to know, why can’t there be a flower that is as beautiful in shape as the monkshood but in the colors that I like best: yellow or something in that range. What should I do? What am I to do?

The supposed-to-be-white blooming wisteria has never bloomed. I found two long shoots coming from its root stock one day while I was weeding nearby and I cut them off with a ferociousness as if they had actually done something wrong and so now deserved this. Will it ever bloom, I ask myself, and what shall I do if it does not? Will I be happy with its widish form, its abundant leafiness and the absence of flowers, and will I then plant nearby something to go with all that? What should I do? What will I do?

And what is midsummer anyway? What should I do with such a thing? I was once in Finland on the 21st of June, which was called midsummer, and I stayed up all night with some Finnish people and we went in and out of a sauna and we went in and out of a lake, the sauna was built on its shore, and then we went dancing at a place where there were some people who did not look like the Finnish people who were my hosts and the Finnish people called them Gypsies. And the Finnish people kept saying that it was in this way they celebrated midsummer, in and out of a sauna, in and out of a lake, dancing in a dance hall along with other people called Gypsies. The Buddleia “African Queen” is said (by Dan Hinkley is his catalogue) to bloom in midsummer but it bloomed before the late (and false) blooming wisteria and it bloomed just after the date of midsummer in Finland; the Buddleia “Potter’s Purple” is blooming now in late July but I had bought it because I thought it would bloom in late August to early September, and so what will I do then, when late August arrives (as surely it will, since I like it; but winter I do not like at all and so I am never convinced that it will actually return); to what must I look forward? The Aster “Little Carlow” (surely the most beautiful aster in the world) right now has formed flower heads and they look as if they will bloom soon, any time now, but they bloom usually in late September to early October and they have a kind of purple/blue that makes you think not of sadness but of wonder: how can such a color be and what is that color exactly? What to do? The sedum (purpureum) too was about to bloom in late July, early August, and I am ignoring that the Buddleia “Pink Charm” which blooms in early September and is planted especially for that, is about to bloom in late July, early August. What to do?

How agitated I am when I am in the garden and how happy I am to be so agitated. How vexed I often am when I am in the garden and how happy I am to be so vexed. What to do? Nothing works just the way I thought it would, nothing looks just the way I had imagined it, and when sometimes it does look like what I had imagined (and this, thank God, is rare) I am startled that my imagination is so ordinary. Why are those wonderful weeping wisterias (or so they looked in a catalogue, wonderful, inviting, even perfect) not fitting in the way I had imagined them, on opposite sides of a stone terrace made up of a patchwork of native Vermont stone? I had not yet understood and also had not yet been able to afford incorporating the element of water in my garden. I could not afford a pond, I could not understand exactly where a pond ought to go in the general arrangement of things. I do not even like a pond, really. When I was a child and living in another part of the world, the opposite of the part of the world from which I now live (and have made a garden), I knew ponds, small, really small bodies of water that had formed naturally (I knew of no human hand that had forced them to be that way), and they were not benign in their beauty: they held flowers, pond lilies, and the pond lilies bore a fruit that when roasted was very sweet and to harvest the fruit of the lilies in the first place was very dangerous, for almost nobody who loved the taste of them (children) could swim, and so attempts to collect the fruit of pond lilies were dangerous; I believe I can remember people who died (children) trying to reach these pond lilies, but perhaps no such thing happened, perhaps I was only afraid that such a thing would happen; perhaps I only thought if I tried to reap the fruit of pond lilies I would die. I have eaten the fruit of pond lilies, they were delicious, but I can’t remember what they tasted like, only that they were delicious and no matter that I can’t remember exactly what they tasted like, they were delicious again.

In my garden there ought to be a pond. All gardens, all gardens with serious intention (but what could that mean) ought to have water as a feature. My garden has no serious intention, my garden has only series of doubts upon series of doubts. What to do about the wisteria blooming out of turn (turn being the same as season)? And then just now I remember that I saw the Lycoris squamigera blooming also, and just nearby the (by now) strange wisteria, in late July, and it was at the foot of the wisteria; but it looked sickly, its bare stalk was stooped over, limp, its head of flowerets opening almost, and then not at all. What to do? The Lycoris had such a healthy flourish with their leaves resembling a headmaster’s strap first thing on a school morning, before it had met the palm of a hand or buttocks (not bare the buttocks, they were shielded by khaki) in the spring, so abundant were they, that they made me worry about the ability of the Anemone pulsatilla, which I had so desperately pursued (I loved the blooms, I loved what came after, the seed heads which perhaps can be only appreciated if you like the things that come after, just that, the mess that comes after the thing you have just enjoyed). And still what to do? Who should I ask what to do? Is there such a person to whom I could ask such a question and would that person have an answer that would make sense to me in a rational way (in the way even I have come to accept things as rational), and would that person be able to make the rational way imbued with awe and not so much with the practical; I know the practical, it will keep you breathing; awe on the other hand is what makes you (me) want to keep living.

But what to do? That year of the wisteria behaving not in its usual way, not in the way I had expected it to behave when I bought it based on its firm illustrious description in a catalogue, other events occurred. And so what to do? One afternoon, a proper afternoon, the sun was unobscured in its correct place in the sky, a fox emerged from my woodland (and it is my woodland, for I carved it out of the chaos of the woods and bramble and made it up so that it seemed like the chaos of the woods and bramble but carefully, willfully, eliminating the parts of the woods and bramble that do not please me, which is to say a part of woods and bramble that I do not yet understand). I had never seen a fox so close by at that time of day; I was startled (really, I was afraid of seeing something so outside my everyday in the middle of my everyday), I screamed, it is possible I said, “It’s a fox!” The other people who were in the house (the housekeeper, Mary Jean; my own clerical assistant, Vrinda) came out of the house and saw it also. When the fox saw us looking at him or her (we could not tell if it was a male looking for a spouse or a mother looking for nourishment) it just stood there in the shadow of the hedge (a not-accounted-for, yet welcome Euonymus elata) looking at us and perhaps it was afraid of our presence and perhaps it was curious about our presence, having observed us at times when we were not aware of it. The fox stood there, perhaps in the thrall of my shriek, perhaps never having heard such a thing as a shriek coming from the species to which I belong (I believe I am in the human species, I am mostly ambivalent about this but when I saw the fox I hoped my shriek sounded like something familiar to the fox, something human). What to do when the fox looked at me as if he was interested in me in just the way I was interested in him (who is he, what is he doing standing there just a few steps from my front door, my front door being just a stone’s throw from where he/she might be expected to make a den). The fox after looking at me (for a while I suppose, though what is a while really) walked off in that stylish way of all beings who are confident that the ground on which they place their feet will remain in place, will remain just where they expect the ground to be. The fox skipped through the soft fruit garden, that section of the garden that I have (it was a whim) devoted to fruits whose pits can be consumed whole with a benefit that Adele Davis (she is now dead) might have approved.

What to do about the fox? The wisteria at the moment the fox appeared was not on my mind. The fox, seen in the shade of the euonymus was gray in color, its coat looking like an ornament, a collar of the coat of someone who could afford such a thing, or a part of a handbag of someone who could afford it, or a spectacle on the wall of someone who could afford such a thing and then not have the good sense to say no to it; when it (the fox) gallivanted into the part of the garden that was not in the shade, the part of the garden that was full of sun, he wasn’t gray at all, his entire coat looked as if someone had just put a light to it, as if he had just been put on fire. The fox did not run away from me, only advanced away from me as I tentatively went forward. The way he would run away from me with his head turned toward me, watching me behind him as he propelled himself forward, was frightening: I cannot do that. And then he disappeared into another part of the wild and I could not follow.

What to do about the fox? For that spring as I looked worriedly at the wisteria, seeing the little nubs along on the drooping stems grow fattish and then burst open into little shoots of green, I saw a small round thing hopping behind some rosebushes (Rosa “Stanwell Perpetual”) and then disappear behind some pots in which I meant to grow sweet peas. The small round thing moved faster than a chipmunk, did not have a long tail and so was more attractive than a rat; it emerged from the behind the pots slowly, peeking, and then came out altogether and stared at me. It was a baby rabbit, and I could see (I felt I could see, I thought I could see) that he was not familiar with danger; he was not malicious and never (as far as I could see) ate anything that was of any value (ornamental or otherwise) to me; he was a pest only because sometimes, when I did not expect him, he would suddenly hop into my view startling me out some worry or other (I mostly worry in the garden, I am mostly vexed in the garden). His mother must have worried about him because one day I saw her (I felt it was his mother, I thought it was his mother) looking for him. I saw them once emerging from the woodland part of the garden; I saw them again in the company of some other rabbits, and I could tell them apart from the other rabbits because none of the others were as big as the mother or as small as him. And then I didn’t see them anymore and never even thought of them anymore until that day I saw the fox emerge from the woodland. It still remains so that I never see them anymore, but it does not remain so that I never think of them anymore. I thought of them just an hour ago when I put three lobsters alive in a pot of boiling water and it is possible that I will think of them tomorrow when I am eating the lobsters sometime during the day. Will the shells from the lobsters be good for compost? I will look it up in a book, I have a book that tells me what to do with everything in the garden and sometimes I take its advice and sometimes I do not; sometimes I do what suits me, sometimes I do in the garden just whatever I please.

Copyright © Jamaica Kincaid

What Is a Native Plant?

Biologists have always been intrigued by questions of origin and dispersal. How and why do species arise? How do they spread from their points of origin? Are there hotspots or centers of evolution and dispersal? Thus, through the years biogeography has been a fertile field of scientific research and discourse, and the question of means of dispersal has long fueled vigorous debate and disagreement. Given present-day understanding of plate tectonics, consideration of plate movements over geologic time must now be added to the traditional arguments about long-distance dispersal versus incremental migration.

In recent geologic time, of course, human intervention has been a factor as well, and increasingly in our day we must reckon with humans as agents of dispersal in all of our speculations about the spread of species. Increasingly, too, biologists are finding that, in the name of conservation, some of their most natural, vital allies are confounding the questions of origin and dispersal with well-meaning but questionable schemes of protecting and/or spreading “native” species.

For the biogeographer, therefore, it is very important to know whether or not a plant or animal has arrived at its present habitat by natural forces, unassisted by humans. This may be difficult to determine, but, the problems not withstanding, the distinction between “native” and “alien” (exotic, introduced) has always been very useful. It is at best a relative distinction, however. “Native” plants have become very fashionable of late, and sometimes we forget this relativity, a fact that prompted me several years ago to express some thoughts about the term “native” in an issue of Chinquapin, The Newsletter of the Southern Appalachian Botanical Society (vol. 2, no. 3, 1994). These thoughts, only slightly changed, follow here.

Every plant sowed or transplanted is an alien or exotic, whether or not it is a native species of the region. The very act of transplanting or sowing is an act of manipulation that in some measure, large or small, falsifies the history of plant migration and establishment in the area. In many ways, this kind of transplanting is more insidious than bringing in blatant exotics that clearly stand out. What would appear to be a “natural” dissemination is in fact an artificial one. Why, one might ask, is it more acceptable to play Johnny Appleseed with native introductions than with exotic introductions? The flip side of this is that an alien species can be more “natural” than a native one, if the native plant has been transplanted and the alien species is a longtime naturalized species that has found its way to the new location by unassisted means.

Just what is “native” or “natural,” anyway? Some presumptive aliens have been part of the North American flora for so long that there is no agreement on whether they are native or naturalized. There can be no absolute definition of “native,” and no one will ever be able to create a definitive list of the “native” plants of North America. For starters, the first humans to set foot in North America and the generations of Native Americans to follow did not make lists of what they found. Even with clearly naturalized plants that have been here for many years and have long since been spreading on their own accord, it is debatable whether they should be regarded other than as a part of the contemporary “natural” vegetation.

Is a species that has been transplanted from the same premises, county, or state any more “native” and virtuous in the landscape than a species transplanted from another region of the continent or half a world away? An introduction is an introduction is an introduction, no matter what the source or span of transplant. Those who use native species for landscaping should always be aware that they are concocting artificial landscapes, simulating but not creating natural ones. There may be many virtues in planting truly (i.e., unarguably) native species (e.g., preventing exotic invasions, gene pool preservation), but achieving a genuinely natural landscape is not one of them. However subtle the planting may be, the end result is the same-an introduced flora, hence a disturbed and falsified landscape. A plant, once ex situ, is introduced. Although it may be a locally native species, it no longer is a native plant in the purest sense, even if it has been moved only inches from its original location. Transplanting always falsifies history, however slightly.

Lest I be misunderstood, let me say that I am a strong supporter of preserving native plants unmolested in their native habitats, and this, to me, should be the primary goal of a native plant society. I do not think that such societies should get into the business of transplanting native species on a big scale to protect them ex situ. This only creates botanical gardens, not natural landscapes. Frankly, I think federal, state, and local governments often over-landscape, regardless of the species being used. Native plant societies should be champions of the cause of letting nature be nature.

Planting Container Grown Plants

About thirty years ago, just when I was getting into gardening, nurseries begin growing plants in pots. I know, you thought plants were always grown in pots, but that’s a fairly new horticultural technique. Before that most perennials, when you could find them, were grown in the field and dug and sold bare root. Container grown plants have the advantage, of carrying all their roots with them when they go from the nursery to your yard. With field dug plants you often only ended up with 25 percent, or less, of the plant’s original root system. Still, planting container grown plants, including perennials, can be tricky at times.

Directing the roots outward

One of the problems with container grown plants is that the root system has often grown into its own pot-like configuration. The roots grow around and a round inside the pot and when you

pull the pot off the roots are in a tight, cylindrical mass. This is often a hindrance to the roots growing outward into the surrounding soil. When roots linger in a tight mass after planting, they are subject to drying out rapidly and this will damage the plant.

When planting a container grown plant with a tight, bound root mass, gently dislodge the outer layer of roots with your fingers or a garden weeder. Pulling some of the roots out of their bound condition will encourage growth rapidly into the surrounding soil and help the plant establish rapidly. During the time you’re waiting for the roots to grow outward, and this may take three to five weeks, give the plant a light watering every few days right at the base of the stem. You must try and keep the original root system moist until outward growing roots can tap the moisture in the surrounding soil.

Plant A Row

Hunger is a national problem, but it is predisposed to a solution within the community. It cuts across geographical and cultural lines, affecting senior citizens, infants, schoolchildren, unemployed, underemployed and homeless everywhere. Estimates vary, but the possibility of as many as 35 million people worrying every day about where they will get their next meal are not excessive.

The members of the Garden Writers Association of America (GWAA) decided to address the problem of hunger in the North America. Alerted to the extent and pervasiveness of this problem by board member, Jeff Lowenfels, this 1600 member organization of professional garden communicators accepted the challenge to urge home gardeners to help feed America’s hungry. Jeff reasoned that, “GWAA communicators reach over 70 million gardeners in North America-it doesn’t take a rocket scientist to see the impact we could have on the hunger problem”.

Vegetable gardens produce an enormous amount of food. Anyone who has ever grown zucchini squash can testify to the abundance. Imagine the amount of food that could be produced if every gardener purposely planted more than he or she needed? If each gardener planted one extra row and donated the harvest to a local food bank, gardeners could make an enormous difference. GWAA imagined that, and the result was a commitment to galvanize gardening readers and viewers to grow and donate food. This campaign would be called Plant A Row for the Hungry, or PAR, for short. GWAA director, Jacqui Heriteau created the first PAR program including brochures and distribution. She continues to lead PAR as National Program Director. Her enthusiasm is contagious as she encourages and organizes individuals or groups to start local PAR campaigns.

The Plant A Row Campaign
Conceived at the outset as people-based, not institutional or bureaucratic, the success of PAR depends on the good will, time and energy of thousands of gardeners and gardening groups. It began with garden communicators, supported by their editors, radio and TV stations and employers alerting the public to the hunger problem in their region and explaining how they can help. They encouraged the planting of an extra row of vegetables through their newspaper columns, on their radio or TV shows, in garden club newsletters, church bulletins and public appearances-at every opportunity.

Corporate support for PAR campaigns was not long in coming. Soil amendment producer Fafard, Inc. of Anderson SC, contributes Plant A Row garden row markers for distribution to participating gardeners to promote the campaign. Many companies and publishers are supporting the effort by routinely putting the Plant A Row logo on their packaging and catalogs to create high visibility for the program. Nurseries and garden centers participate by offering Plant A Row brochures and row markers at check-out counters.

With experience and Jacqui Heriteau’s leadership, the program has grown. City-wide projects from Milwaukee to San Jose and state-wide projects in Missouri and South Carolina and others are underway. More and more groups such as schools and church congregations are participating. And, along the way garden writers have developed even more creative ways to spread the word.

An Amazing Success Story
Joan Jackson, garden columnist for the San Jose Mercury News, pioneered the PAR program among her readership and her California community set a fast pace early. With the support of her newspaper, she devoted many of her columns to describing the program and encouraging gardeners to sign a pledge to grow and contribute fresh produce. She published the addresses of collection sites, publicized the agencies that used the food and tallied the weight of the food contributions over the season. She printed the names of the donors and made appearances at garden related events.

The response was overwhelming. By September of the first year of her campaign readers had donated nearly 34,000 pounds of fruit and vegetables to area hunger relief agencies. Not one to rest on her laurels, Joan set about the following year to exceed that amount of fresh vegetables donated and each year she has. Her secret is to never let up. She says, “Mention Plant A Row at every opportunity.”

Making a difference
Over the years the Plant A Row effort has become increasingly successful nationwide at promoting and enlisting participation by gardeners and non-gardeners alike. Newsletters, word of mouth, a wonderful video hosted by Jim Wilson (former Executive Director of the National Garden Bureau, former president of GWAA and spokesman for PAR) have further stimulated public awareness and enthusiasm.

After four year’s, the donated food can be measured in tons. Non-gardeners have jumped on the bandwagon. They volunteer as drivers, serve at collection sites and weigh and pack the collected produce. They organize local programs and work with the media.

In 1999 several new sponsors have joined to expand the campaign. The National Garden Bureau has donated funds to continue the program and assisted with a international publicity program.

Lending its name and resources as a sponsor, Home & Garden Television (HGTV) brings media coverage since it is one of the nations fastest growing cable networks with over 51 million viewers. HGTV is committed to this ground-breaking public service campaign to feed the hungry. The Scotts Company promotes PAR on every box of Miracle-Gro fertilizer and Fafard, Inc promotes PAR on millions of soil amendment bags.

The Future
A Million for the Millennium is the now the goal. A million pounds of fresh vegetables grown in gardens and donated to food pantries to feed the hungry is an attainable goal. Spurred by the understanding that government efforts to restructure welfare is leaving many people without food stamps and that food pantries will be hard pressed to meet the increased need, garden writers are redoubling their efforts to encourage gardeners to Plant a Row for the Hungry.

Want to help?
To learn more about Plant A Row or GWAA:

• Visit the Plant A Row page on the GWAA website at www.gwaa.org

• For general information, a media kit or brochure call

TOLL FREE 1-877-GWAA-PAR or E-mail at PAR@GWAA.org

For a brochure, “Starting your own PAR Campaign” Contact Jacqui Heriteau, GWAA National Program Director of Plant A Row by Phone 860-824-0794; Fax 860-825-1018 or E-mail jacquiheriteau@msn.com. For membership information in GWAA, contact phone 703-257-1032, FAX 703-257-0213 or E-Mail membership@gwaa.org

To donate food:

• Call Foodchain, the national food rescue network 1-800-845-3008 for a local contact. Or Second

Harvest 1-800-771-2302 Ext. 121, Dan Michel.

• Contact local ministeriums, diocesan offices, United Way, Salvation Army or the local telephone book for agencies that serve the hungry.

To learn more about the National Garden BureauVisit the website at www.ngb.org