Dig Magazine

A decorated evergreen tree can be a wonderful addition to the house during the holiday season, but when not properly selected and maintained it can also represent a potential fire hazard. You can have a beautiful and safe holiday tree if you follow a few simple suggestions.

Start Fresh
You can’t turn a dry tree into a fresh tree, so it’s important to start with a fresh tree. Most cut Christmas trees are harvested several weeks before they’re sold and they can vary a lot in freshness depending on how they have been handled. One way to assure getting a fresh tree is to cut your own at a local tree farm. There are a number of Christmas tree farms in Maryland and with a little driving you can usually buy a tree cut that day.

The Needle Drop Test
If you buy a tree from a local lot check it for freshness. To judge freshness, do the “needle drop test.” Grasp the tree firmly by the trunk midway between the top and the bottom. Lift the tree about a foot off the ground and strike the cut trunk back into the ground. If this results in a shower of needles from the tree, look for another tree. If no, or only a few needles fall off, the tree is fresh.

Getting the Tree Home
If you have to travel a long distance when buying a cut tree, protect it from drying wind by placing it in the trunk of the car, in the back of a station wagon, or in an enclosed truck. If the tree must be tied to the top of a car, first wrap it with cloth or plastic. The wind created by a moving vehicle will cause excessive drying out of the needles.

Keep the Tree Cool, Shaded and Well Watered
Once you get the tree home, cut an inch thick section off the base of the trunk and place the tree in a container of water. This will allow water to be quickly absorbed into the tree. Sometimes cutting an inch off the trunk isn’t easy, but it is very important. A good tree-pruning saw will make this job a lot easier.

Place the tree, with its trunk in a container of water, in a cool, shaded, windless location. A garage or unheated porch is ideal.

Water, Water, Water
The key to keeping a cut Christmas tree fresh and fire safe is water. If an evergreen is full of water, there is very little fire danger. However, as soon as the tree is cut, it begins to dry out, and your job is to get water back into the tree as quickly as possible. Immediately after you get the tree home, cut off a piece of the trunk and place the tree into a container of water. The water in this container should be changed daily. Once you’re ready to bring the tree into the house for decorating, trim off another piece of the trunk and place the tree in a stand that holds water.

Keeping the Water Fresh and Clean
Within a few days, bacteria will grow in the tree stand water and will begin to block the water conducting tissue in the tree trunk. There are two methods of keeping bacteria out of the cut Christmas tree water: (1) changing the water daily, and (2) adding a small amount of disinfectant to the water. Changing the water daily works well during the time between the purchase of the tree and it is brought into the house. Once the tree is placed in its permanent tree stand, it’s usually difficult to change the water. This is where the use of a disinfectant can really help keep the water free of bacteria. The easiest disinfectant to use is household bleach. Two ounces of bleach added to a gallon of water will prevent the buildup of bacteria and allow an uninterrupted flow of water into the tree.

What About Special Water Additives?
Often you’ll find all sorts of strange things recommended to put in the tree water. Anything from soda pop to aspirins. Water is the critical ingredient in terms of keeping the cut Christmas tree fresh and fire safe. The tree stand water reservoir should never be allowed to dry out and the water should be kept free of bacteria by changing it often or the use of a bleach disinfectant. There is really no need for fertilizers, sugars, or other incidental ingredients. Don’t worry about special additives, just keep the tree in water.

Placing and Decorating the Tree
The tree should be located in the house as far as possible from heat sources, such as a radiator, fire place, or kerosene heater. Carefully check wires and connections of all lights placed on the tree. Avoid plugging too many light sets into the same electrical outlet. Keep all gift wrapping and other flammable materials from direct contact with the tree. Never plug in the tree lights unless someone will be home to keep an eye on the tree. Check the water in the tree stand reservoir daily and add more water, plus a little bleach, whenever the level is getting low.- Do not allow the water reservoir to go dry, this will allow air to get into the cut trunk and retard the future uptake of water.

REMEMBER! For a fresh, and SAFE, cut Christmas tree:
Start with a fresh tree. Protect the tree on the drive home. Cut an inch off the trunk. Place the tree in water right away.

Keep the tree in a cool, shaded location until brought inside.
Always keep water in the tree stand.

Through the years I have found great satisfaction in growing my own vegetables and much enjoyment from growing my own fruit trees. Orchard fruits and nuts not only supply essential nutrition and fiber to a diet but also opportunities for joy and beauty. Growing vegetables can be very productive, but no food-production system is complete without a small orchard.

In one way, an orchard is easier to grow than a vegetable garden. Once planted, fruit and nut trees will produce for years. Some apple trees can still be productive after 50 years. On the negative side, you must wait two to five years before harvesting your first crop of fruits and nuts. So if you are thinking about having fruit trees, don’t delay in planning your orchard and getting those trees in the ground.

No matter where you live, there is a wide variety to choose from. However, some fruits do better in certain geographical locations than others. Apples grow better where winters are cold, while the stone fruits (peaches, apricots, plums) thrive in warmer climates. Pears grow well in a much wider climatic range, and nut trees are easy to grow and can be found in all regions. Citrus fruits and most figs require hot climates or a greenhouse environment.

It’s not easy to make the final selection, since there are so many factors that influence or limit your choice. These include:

Space,
Cold Hardiness,
Chill Requirements,
Pollination Requirements,
Disease Resistance,
Humidity Tolerance,
Drought Resistance, and
Dwarfing Rootstocks.

SPACE. The number and varieties of fruit and nut trees you plant is limited by the space you have available. The recommended orchard spacing for each variety is shown on the accompanying chart; however, there are several ways to overcome this limitation.

Incorporate the orchard as part of the landscape, such as a wind screen or property divider.
Espalier the trees against a wall or fence.
Plant dwarf or semi-dwarf trees.
For those who have patios or balconies, grow dwarf trees in containers.
COLD HARDINESS. If you live in a cold climate, choose only varieties that will not be damaged or killed by the lowest temperatures expected in your area. This is especially true for peaches, which cannot survive subzero weather and late spring frosts. Some cold-hardy varieties of fruits include peaches of the Candor, Reliance and Madison varieties; Macintosh apples; and North Star cherries.

CHILL REQUIREMENTS. The converse of cold-hardiness is found in some fruits that will not produce unless they have a minimum number of hours below 45 degrees F during their dormant season.

If you live in an area where the winters are mild and the summers are hot, select varieties that have limited winter chill requirements, such as Desertgold peaches; Kieffer pears; and apples of the Anna, Ein Shemer and Tropical Beauty varieties. Stark Brothers Nurseries (Louisiana, MO 63353) give special attention in their catalog to trees recommended specifically for southern or northern climates.

POLLINATION. Some fruit trees require two or more compatible varieties nearby for adequate cross-pollination. Sometimes, even though a tree blooms profusely, it will not set fruit unless the proper pollinating variety is in bloom nearby. Nursery catalogs will provide specific pollination requirements so that you can choose two varieties of the same fruit with overlapping bloom time.

DISEASE RESISTANCE. Some varieties are more susceptible to blight, fungus diseases and mildew than others. A little research to identify resistant varieties can pay off in better crops with less spraying. Some nurseries also will certify that their stock is virus free, an important plus.

If you are considering planting a pear tree, it is important to look for varieties that are resistance to fire blight, a disease that is devastating the pear orchards in this country.

HUMIDITY TOLERANCE AND DROUGHT RESISTANCE. Orchards in humid climates of the South and Southeast generally have more severe problems of viral, bacterial and fungus diseases; therefore, any tree with humidity tolerance is a better choice for those areas. Likewise, orchardists of the West and Southwest, where there is little seasonal rainfall, should look for drought resistant varieties.

DWARFING ROOTSTOCKS. The development of dwarf and semi-dwarf apple trees is significant enough to warrant special mention, for it is revolutionizing the apple growing industry. Handmade grafts join top sections of one variety with the rootstock of another, resulting in a highly productive yet smaller tree. Smaller trees can be planted closer together, resulting in more trees and apples per acre than from standard size trees.

Dwarf and semi-dwarf apple trees are a must for the home orchards, since they not only save space, but also eliminate the need for large ladders and special equipment for pruning, spraying, and picking. In addition, they bear fruit earlier. Study the available rootstock varieties closely since some have better disease and drought resistance, as well as other attributes, than others.

It’s entertaining and educational to browse through books and catalogs to put together your orchard selections. While catalogs are useful in learning about the variety that is available, sometimes problems with labeling, orders, or delivery can arise in mail order purchasing. Once I ordered peaches and got nectarines instead. I found this mistake three years after planting when the trees started to bear fruit.

Other resources can be found by asking your neighbors and the county agricultural agent to advise you on varieties that have produced well in your area. Local nurseries also can provide recommendations for your area’s best producers.

If you like to experiment and want to try varieties that aren’t even in the catalogs yet, then write for information from these organizations:

New York State Fruit Testing Cooperative Association, Inc. (Geneva, NY 14456).
California Rare Fruit Growers (California State University, Fullerton, CA 92634).
The Home Orchard Society (2511 Southwest Miles St., Portland, OR 97219).
The North American Fruit Explorers (PO Box 711, St. Louis, MO 63188).
The wonderful thing about planting an orchard is that you can look forward to years of not only eating and enjoying the fruits but the joy and beauty of seeing the new buds and blossoms appear during the spring.

FRUIT AND NUT CHART
FRUITS Tree height (in feet) Bears fruit after planting Suggested spacing (in feet) Average yield for 10-year-old tree

Apple
Dwarf (M-9) 10-12 2-3 years 6 x 10 2-3 bushels
Dwarf (M-26) 14 2-3 years 8 x 10 3-4 bushels
Semi-dwarf (M-7) 20 3 years 12 x 20 10-12 bushels
Standard 35-45 5-8 years 20 x 30 25 or more bushels
Apricot 20 2-3 years 15 x 25 3-6 bushels
Cherry
Sour 20-25 2-3 years 15 x 25 20 quarts or more
Sweet 25-30 4-5 years 18 x 25 50 quarts or more
Peach & Nectarine 20-24 2-3 years 15 x 25 3-5 bushels
Pear
Semi-dwarf 20 2-3 years 10 x 18 5-10 bushes
Standard 25-35 3-5 years 18 x 25 15 or more bushels
Plum 20-24 2-3 years 15 x 25 3-6 bushels
NUTS
Almond 10-15 2-3 years 15 x 15
Black Walnut 50 3-5 years 35 x 35
Butternut 50 3-5 years 35 x 35
Chestnut 40 3-5 years 30 x 30
English Walnut 40 3-5 years 35 x 35
Filbert 18 3-5 years 15 x 15
Hickory 40 5-10 years 30 x 30
Pecan 50-70 5-10 years 40 x 40

Rudbeckia fulgida var. sullivantii ‘Goldsturm’ has been selected by the Perennial Plant Association as the 1999 Perennial Plant of the Year. Acclaimed internationally as one of the most popular perennials for the past fifty years, its bright golden-yellow flowers shine in gardens worldwide. In 1937 Heinrich Hagemann observed a glorious stand of Rudbeckia fulgida var. sullivantii at Gebrueder Schuetz’s nursery in the Czech Republic. Recognizing the superiority over other commonly-grown Rudbeckia species, Hagemann convinced his employer Karl Foerster of Potsdam, Germany to propagate his discovery. World War 11 interfered with the planned debut of the plant and it was not until 1949 that the triumphant success of Rudbeckia fulgida var. sullivantii renamed ‘Goldsturm’ began. ‘ Goldsturm ‘ translates to English as “gold storm.” Heinrich Hagemann, although retired, maintains an active interest in his company, the world-renowned Hagemann Staudenkulturen.

A member of the Asteraceae (Compositae) family, orange coneflower or black-eyed Susan has a native range from New Jersey west to Illinois. ‘Goldsturm’ orange coneflower is significant in its compact habit and 1/2-inch golden-yellow petals which encircle a nearly black cone of disk flowers. The leaves are coarse, dark green lanceolate to ovate, 3-6 inches long; stem leaves are smaller, almost bract-like. The “gold storm” blankets the tops of I 8-30-inch tall plants from mid-July to October. Plant width is 24 inches.

Propagation
This excellent composite can be propagated by seed, division, or stem cuttings. Height and color uniformity can vary in plants grown from seed compared to asexually propagated plants. Germination guidelines prescribe moist chilling for 3-4 weeks at 32-35oF followed by 72oF germination temperature. Research at The Ohio State University reported an optimal germination temperature for untreated seeds to be 82oF to 88oF. Seedlings are transplanted 28-38 days after sowing. Clump division is done in early spring or fall with spring preferred. Stem cuttings are taken as the stem tissue begins to harden.

Cultivation
‘Goldsturm’ is a long-blooming, low maintenance, long-lived perennial for full sun to partial shade. It tolerates clay soils and mild droughts, but grows best in well-drained, consistently moist soil. ‘Goldsturm’ orange coneflower performs as well in the high heat and humidity of South Carolina as it does in the -35oF winters of Alberta. Plant bare-root or container-grown plants anytime during the growing season, 18 inches apart. When establishing a new planting, mulch to retain moisture. ‘Goldsturm’ has few pest or disease problems.

Landscape Uses
Rudbeckia fulgida var. sullivantii ‘Goldsturm’ works exceptionally well in commercial landscapes because of its durability and dramatic visual impact. Stiff stems eliminate any need for staking. Rhizomes spread the semi-evergreen basal leaves thickly enough to shade out weeds making it an effective non-invasive ground cover. Planted in bold drifts, the shimmering golden-yellow flowers command attention to the early fall garden. Its native North American roots make ‘Goldsturm’ a natural for meadow gar-dens providing nectar for butterflies and seeds for overwintering birds. As a mid-border perennial, ‘Goldsturm’ adds a brilliant splash in late summer when combined with the subtle hues of pale blue Perovskia atriplicifolia or Caryopteris x clandonensis and soft green Pennisetum alopecuroides. In winter the black stems and seedheads add contrast and texture against the muted tans of ornamental grasses. Prolific flowering, low maintenance requirements, and proven reliability has earned Rudbeckia fulgida var. sullivantii ‘Goldsturm’ distinction as an award-winning perennial.

‘The Julia Fordham Collection’ is the summing-up of a decade of work, and a great introduction to those who’ve never heard Ms. Fordham’s extraordinary voice. Featuring new versions of the classics ‘Happy Ever After’ and ‘Where Does The Time Go’ (a duet with Curtis Stigers), ‘Collection’ spans a body of work that began in 1988 with her first album, ‘Julia Fordham’.

Also included here are 2 previously unreleased songs – “Kid” and “It Was Nothing That You Said” – recorded in 1998. Highlights include several tracks from the acclaimed 1997 album ‘East West’, including the haunting ‘Killing Me Slowly’, as well as one of my favorites, the title track from 1994’s ‘Falling Forward’.

This new CD has spent as much time in my player as East West did (which still ranks as one of my favorites from the past two years). If you’ve never heard Julia Fordham, you’ve really been missing something!

Aquatic gardens require a little attention in the fall to prepare them for winter conditions. The following tasks will help insure that the plants and fish survive the winter.

Remove dead plant debris:
Water lilies and other aquatic plants are vigorously growing plants that produce a fair amount of old, dying foliage, stems and flowers. Removal of the older deteriorating plant parts is a good cultural practice all through the growing season, but is especially important to do before winter. The accumulation of dead leaves, sterns and flowers causes murky water, stimulates excessive growth of algae, and stresses fish as it decreases oxygen levels. When the water’s surface seals with ice, the gases caused by the decomposition of this organic matter accumulate under the ice and can kill fish. After a hard freeze has killed water lily and other aquatic plant foliage, usually in late October, trim off and remove the debris.

Prevent tree leaves from falling into the aquatic gardens:
The accumulation of fallen tree leaves can be a more serious problem because of the volume of material. Tree leaves cause the water to develop an odor, become very dark colored and harm or kill the fish during winter. In early fall and throughout the winter, if practical, cover the pond to keel) leaves out. Some types of materials to use include leaf or bird netting, ½ inch hardware cloth or chicken wire.

Dispose of tropical plants
Tropical water lilies are perpetual bloomers, often right up to the last few days of their life. Unfortunately, they do not survive the winter outdoors. It is best to handle them as you would any other annual flower in the landscape and dispose of them at the end of the season. Because they are much more expensive than typical annuals, it is tempting to move them indoors for the winter. However, unless you have access to a green house, tropical water lilies usually do not survive well indoors. A nice tropical plant that is successfully kept indoors over the winter is the Umbrella Palm, Cyperus. Keep it wet and place it in a sunny location.

Move marginal plants into deeper water
The shelf along the edge of an aquatic garden is usually only eight to ten inches deep. In a very cold winter, plants left there may suffer extensive root damage from the ice. Lately, our winters in central Maryland have not been cold enough to do much harm to plants left in the shallower water of the pond’s shelf. To insure complete winter survival of marginal plants, move them in the fall down into the deeper part (18 inches or more) of the pond for winter.

Fish care
Goldfish and Koi do well over the winter in the pond as long as there is a water depth of at least 18 inches. Keeping the water free of excessive organic debris like leaves is important to prevent oxygen levels from becoming depleted. Stop feeding the fish as water temperatures drop to 50 degrees F (about mid-October). Fish that are accustomed to being fed daily will often engorge themselves with food. In the winter their digestion process slows dramatically and the undigested food decomposes in their stomachs and often kills them.

It is also helpful to keep a small area of the water surface free from ice to provide better air circulation into the water. This can be done using a stock tank or pond heater.

Disconnect and remove water pumps and statuary:
Don’t forget about mechanical features such as pumps, filter boxes and fountains. Ice can break concrete statuary, pumps and filter boxes if they become frozen in the ice. If the pump and filter box are in water at least 18 inches deep, they can be safely left in the pond as long as they are kept running. Running water will not freeze, and the circulation of the water will also aid in distribution of oxygen. It is still advisable to store expensive fountains or statuary indoors for the winter.

Summary
With a little preparation in the fall, an aquatic garden and its plants can survive adverse winter weather conditions in good condition. If your clientele needs more information about aquatic gardening, or any other type of gardening, refer them to the Home and Garden Information Center at 1-800-342-2507. Gardening experts are available daily, from 8:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. We also have a large assortment of Extension fact sheets and bulletins.

Since ancient times herbs and spices have played important roles. Wars have been waged and the New World discovered in their pursuit. They transform and glamorize every day foods into a new experience for the palate. Ordinary becomes “wow”… children actually eat their vegetables (what a concept!) and hors d’euvres become an exploration of taste and style. Here are a few fast favorites from the 1999 Herbs & Spices Calendar (available from Avalanche Publishing & Judd Publishing) Each recipe is followed by some growing and other interesting tid bits of information for the herb/spice that was used. Bon appetite!

BABY CARROTS WITH GINGER BUTTER
Prep Time: 15 minutes
Cook Time: 15 minutes

Now that the 2nd harvest is coming in, here’s a great way to serve your carrots. This combination of fragrant ginger root and sweet honey makes this tuber splendiferous!

2 tablespoons butter (real)
1 inch fresh ginger root (diameter of a quarter), peeled, chopped
1 ½ pounds baby carrots, steamed al dente
2 tablespoons golden honey
Salt and fresh ground pepper to taste

In a large, heavy saucepan, over a medium-high heat, melt the butter and add the ginger. Sauté for 3 minutes. Add the steamed carrots and toss. Cover and reduce heat to medium. Cook for 5 more minutes, tossing occasionally. Add the honey and toss until the carrots are coated. Salt and pepper to taste. Cook for another 3 minutes until the butter-ginger sauce thickens. Serves 4.

GINGER develops from a bulbous root, and in good conditions will grow to three feet. It produces narrow leaves about an inch wide and up to 12 inches long. Their flower is dense, three-inch cone shaped spikes that are yellow with purple lips — not unlike that of an Iris. Although it’s a tropical plant, some gardeners have had success growing ginger in portable containers. When the weather grows cool, bring the container indoors to a window with full sun. The growing outcome isn’t guaranteed but it’s fun to try. Buy some fresh looking roots from the market. Plant them at an angle with the sprout ends up, in a pot filled with dryish, sandy soil. Soak the soil with warm water and maintain that moisture as the plant develops. Place in a window with full sun. Remember, humid means happy. If you are fortunate, within 10 days, bamboo-like stems and leaves will emerge. In six to nine months the roots will have substantially matured enough for you to dig some up, harvest what you need and then replant what’s left. Good luck!

PARSLEY: HERBED PORTOBELLO PATE
Combined Prep & Cook Time (total, beginning to end) 45 Minutes

This divine little number is fabulous for entertaining – unusual and rich. Save what ever left-overs you have to spread over hot, toasted bread for a luncheon treat!

1 lb. portobello mushroom tops
2 tablespoons butter
2/3 cup finely chopped onion
1 large clove garlic, finely minced
2 rounded tablespoons finely chopped parsley
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon fresh pepper
2 teaspoons medium sherry
2 tablespoon light mayonnaise
3 small sprigs parsley
Water Crackers or similar

Break the portobello caps into thirds and finely chop in batches in a food processor. In large skillet melt the butter. Add mushrooms, onion, garlic, parsley, salt and pepper. Cook over medium-high heat until all of the liquid is absorbed (about 10 minutes). Add the sherry. Cook stirring constantly until the sherry evaporates – about two to three minutes. Set aside to cool for 15 minutes. Return the mushroom mixture to the food processor. Add the mayonnaise and process for about two minutes, or until the mayonnaise is mixed in completely. The mushroom pate should be smooth, but still retaining texture. Turn into a small-medium serving dish. Garnish with parsley sprigs. Serve at room temperature with water crackers or similar. Makes two cups.

(TIP: Can be made a day ahead, covered and saved in the refrigerator.)

PARSLEY is used the world over by amateur and gourmet cooks alike to garnish and add lift to many dishes. It is also jam-packed with nutrients: 1 cup of parsley contains more vitamin C than an orange, more calcium than a cup of milk, more beta carotene than a large carrot, and 20 times more iron than a serving of liver!

Parsley is not strictly a garden dweller. It will happily grow in a container placed in a sunny window planted in average soil and kept moderately moist.

CILANTRO & AVOCADO SALSA with BALSAMIC (1998 Herb & Spice calendar)
Prep Time: 25 minutes
Rest Time: 30 minutes or more

To some, cilantro and/ or chilies are an acquired taste. This recipe calls for moderate amounts of each that everyone will agree is delightfully refreshing. Add more of either to suit your taste if so desired.

1 tablespoon Balsamic vinegar
4 scallions, finely chopped white part
1 large clove garlic, pressed
1-4 oz. can skinned, mild green chilies, drained, rinsed, finely chopped
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh cilantro (or more to taste)
4 medium ripe, red tomatoes finely chopped
1 ripe, yet firm large avocado, skinned and diced
Salt & fresh ground black pepper to taste

In a medium bowl whisk together the balsamic, scallions and garlic until well combined. Add the chilies, cilantro and tomatoes. Combine well. Toss in the avocado and season with salt and pepper to taste. Cover and allow to sit for at least 1/2 an hour or more. Can be served at room temperature or chilled. Makes approximately 4 cups of salsa.

CILANTRO is an ancient Asian herb that resembling flat-leafed parsley, but with a significantly more pungent and musky flavor. Cilantro is grown just like parsley: Buy a small seedling from your local nursery early in the growing season (from seed takes too long for most zones). Plant it in dry soil and full sun. Keep an eye on it when the weather gets hot or it bolts and become more or less useless.

Now you can send a Dig Postcard to anyone with an email address. Choose from many different categories, pictures, and sounds. They’re Fun and Free.

Re-engineering is a popular buzzword today. Corporations use it to describe changes they are making in their market focus or their corporate structure. Basically, it means taking a look at where you are and reassessing what you can do to capitalize on what you have. And what holds true for established corporations surprisingly holds true for the established home garden.

As landscape matures, things change. Trees get taller and cast deeper shade, bushes outgrow their original compactness and places in the garden. People’s lifestyles change, and that area given over to a sandbox or a swing set may no longer be needed. Or you may have purchased an older home with mature plantings that no longer work, or at least they don’t satisfy you. The time comes in almost every landscape plan when “re-engineering” is the way to go.

A Fresh Look
To start re-engineering a garden you have to take a hard, honest look at what you have. Because changes in the garden can happen subtly over years, you might overlook the obvious, such as an increase in shade or a physical change in your garden. For example, maybe you added a deck and now traffic patterns have changed, or you took down the swing set and the focal point of your garden is now in the wrong place, etc. Pretend you are the new owner of the house and garden you are surveying, and look at it with as much objectivity as you can.

Back to the Drawing Board
Is there an orderly look to your garden, or has it just “happened” over time? Even “natural” gardens have a plan behind them that keeps them looking natural instead of wild. If there hasn’t been a plan, this is the place to start. Depending on the size of your garden and how elaborate you want to make it, you can plan it yourself or call on professional help.

Even if you call on a professional, do have some plan in mind as to what you want your garden to ultimately look like. Take one area at a time and think about how you want that to look, and then move on to the next area. If your garden doesn’t naturally break into “areas,” think about creating them by varying garden bed sizes, shapes and what plants they will contain. You may want to add a garden bed or two, or take some beds out.

A planned garden doesn’t have to happen all at once. If you develop an overall plan, you can work on one or two areas at a time, and save work on other areas for later in the year or even until the next season or two.

Dealing with Shade
In evaluating your existing garden, you may find that some plants don’t perform as well as they used to. It could be that they need more light. Consider moving these to another area of the garden and finding new shade tolerant plants to replace them. Begonias, impatiens and other shade tolerant plants can give a bright show of color where petunias no longer perform well.

If you are uncertain about how well a plant will perform in a problem area, plant one or two plants of the types you would like there (in the ground or in a container) and test them for one season. Next time around, plant more of those that did well, and test some others for future plantings. Many gardeners annually try out “new” plants on a small scale before really committing any amount of time or money to them.

Trees and shrubs
One of the biggest changes that can creep up silently on a garden is the growth of trees and shrubs. They not only grow taller and larger, but they can dramatically influence what can or can’t grow under or around them. Trees can be trimmed professionally to thin out branches and allow more light to filter through to the ground. In extreme cases, such as too many trees planted too close together (or that somehow just grew there), removal of some of the trees in addition to trimming may be the answer. Professional advice and service from tree experts is highly recommended for trimming and removal.

Overgrown shrubs can also be trimmed back or removed entirely if no longer desirable. As much as it hurts emotionally and as much as it can be visually unattractive for a while, a severe trimming (almost to the ground) can often rejuvenate old and woody shrubs. Fall is often a good time to do severe trimming, because (in Northern areas, at least) the shrub may be “shutting down” for the winter, and will send up new shoots in the spring. Once they begin growing again you can control future shaping.

Plants planted around the base of a tree compete with the tree roots for water and nutrients. Creating raised beds for plants will reduce this competition, and can add a new feature to your garden. If raised beds are not practical or wanted, when planting under a tree or near its roots put the plants in pots and then sink the pots in holes around the tree. This, too, will reduce competition. For specific recommendations, ask a landscape professional or check information in books at your local library. Your local agricultural or horticultural extension agent may also offer some advice.

Problem areas
Almost every home has a problem area. Often it is the north side of the house, or a walkway along one side of the house, or an area behind the garage or a shed. Frequently, a simple cleanup is the first order of business. For example, once cleaned up, a dirt pathway can be spruced up with mulch or a layer of gravel and the addition of stepping stones. A north wall that never gets any sun can be brightened with containers of shade plants grouped or lined along the way. If there is an overhang, hanging baskets can be used, or they can be hung from wrought iron hooks made for baskets. Alternating tall and short containers, and varying plant types and colors can turn a formerly drab area into a “secret garden.” Focal Points

All gardens need a focal point. A small garden needs only one, and larger gardens may need several. A focal point draws the eye to a special feature or planting and helps give the rest of the garden a more orderly look. Focal points can be as simple as one spectacular plant or planting among the others, or a feature such as a gazing globe, a water pond or a piece of sculpture or statuary. In larger gardens focal points can be created for different areas. On a patio, for example, a grouping of different sized pots can serve as a focal point, with one large pot being the center of attention. Tall plants grouped in mass and surrounded by shorter plants can create focal point in a garden bed, as can a contrast in color or plant type. Ornamental features such as large rocks, a pedestal, a statue or a gazing ball are natural focal points. A quick and easy feature to add to a bed is a birdbath or a bird feeder. An arbor trellis planted with climbing plants such as morning glories or thunbergia can be an eye-catching focal point for an entire garden. Color coordination

A coordinated color scheme can really pull a garden together and refresh one that may have gone stale. Use a combination of three or four colors to create a color theme. Match the colors in your dishes or your placemats if you eat outdoors. Red, white and blue make your garden patriotic. Pink, white and green is cool and refreshing. Yellow, blue and white is a bright summery combination. You can break the scheme every now and then when you have a great plant that doesn’t fit the “rules,” and then it becomes the exception that points out what your theme is. Planning Ahead

Re-engineering doesn’t always have to be a major undertaking. Once you have a plan in place, small adjustments every year or two will keep you from having to start from scratch.